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Journal UNS 150U - Nature Aquarium

My 20 year-old eyeballs were much better at seeing end points in phenolphthalein titrations, than my eyes now 😞 My schedule isn't quite so ridiculous today, so I will check it again tonight before the CO2 switches off. Brighter light does make it easier, but I am probably still reading it a little high.70 seemed crazy high though, for not even a full pH drop, which is why I didn't believe that value.
How old is the test kit? Be careful of older or not well stored reagent with the CO2 test. The first kit I had, I was quite blasé with recapping the bottle and after 6 months of use the weaker reagent caused crazy high readings.
 
How old is the test kit? Be careful of older or not well stored reagent with the CO2 test. The first kit I had, I was quite blasé with recapping the bottle and after 6 months of use the weaker reagent caused crazy high readings.
That’s what I found too. Even though it wasn’t expired yet, I had to buy a new bottle to get reasonable readings again. Now I’m careful to recap the bottle tightly immediately after drawing from it.
 
How old is the test kit?
New. Purchased about 6 weeks ago. Except I just checked the kit. The Phenolphthalein expires 5/27 BUT the other reagent expires this month, 5/26. Good grief.
 
New. Purchased about 6 weeks ago. Except I just checked the kit. The Phenolphthalein expires 5/27 BUT the other reagent expires this month, 5/26. Good grief.
Heard back from Carolina Biological Supply, and they have agreed to replace the base reagent for the LaMotte CO2 titration kit. In the meantime, I went ahead and ordered the Hanna kit anyway. At least next time if I get wonky CO2 readings that don't align with everything else, I can compare the two kits and see if they are at least in agreement with each other.

Meanwhile, did a large water change yesterday, and removed a few melted Crypt parva and Bucephalandra 'needle leaf' leaves (that plant is a hot mess). The Kedagang, Theia, and Dark Venus seem unfazed, but the needle leaf...yeesh!

Waiting on a couple of extra trident ferns to arrive, and I need to fix the foreground sand this morning.

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My arms are grateful that the magnetic stir plate arrived. Now I should be able to get a more accurate degassed water sample without the workout!

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New. Purchased about 6 weeks ago. Except I just checked the kit. The Phenolphthalein expires 5/27 BUT the other reagent expires this month, 5/26. Good grief.
Damnit, I just checked mine. 🤬 I've had the kit for 20 years, but I got refill reagents for Christmas. My base reagent expired Feb 2026 and at this point, it's a bit too late to complain. However, its sodium hydroxide. I think it will be OK. I recently had to re-set my CO2 and my Erio quinguangulare has started back growing again, so my CO2 must be OK. Its notoriously picky. Yeah, if I had just bought it, I'd be contacting customer support, but as it is, I'll make do. Glad you posted your reply to Jackson.
 
Damnit, I just checked mine. 🤬 I've had the kit for 20 years, but I got refill reagents for Christmas. My base reagent expired Feb 2026 and at this point, it's a bit too late to complain.
I figured it was at least worth pointing out to them. It may or not make a difference in the results, but three months from date of purchase to expiration was a bit short IMO. Glad they were willing to sub the reagent though. I am still curious directly compare the Hanna to the LaMotte. Shouldn't be different, but we'll see!
 
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That’s looking great! I had a similar experience with ‘needle leaf’ from buceplant. Had some initial melt back but it eventually stabilized and looks much better now.
Thank you! I have seen that 'needle leaf' can be a bit sensitive. Mine was Tropica TC, and I had hoped it would do better, but it has all but dissolved into a puddle of soupy leaves at this point. However, I left it alone for now. It's only been in the tank a week. Hopefully the rhizome survives, and it shapes up. If not, I may just replace it with Anubias 'mini coin'. It's toward the rear channel of Hakkai stone behind the right side arches, so not really visible unless viewing the tank from the side at the moment. I do hope it bounces back, though. I used it back there to help provide a little perspective on depth compared to the larger leaf Buces in the front. I'm encouraged yours is pulling through.
 
How are you liking the backlight? I've been thinking off and on of getting one.
I am having a love/hate relationship with this backlight. I purchased it in large part because of the staircase that is behind the tank. The hand rail was too distracting, and still quite visible through a frosted foil (I would have had to go with solid white vinyl on the back of the tank to make the hand rail disappear entirely).

As this is a large, and odd-sized tank (150), I am limited to the backlight from ARC (and grateful they make one!). I know ADA makes one, but I haven't found it available here in the US for this size tank. The UNS ATMOs for a 150 doesn't exist. ATMOS only goes up to a 120P, so that wasn't an option either. I don't think LightGround, which is popular in Europe and the UK is available at all here in the US (as with all things aquascaping, our options really are pretty limited here).

The lightscreen itself is good. The app to run it is a piece of :poop:. It frequently resets permissions, and then can't find the Bluetooth controller. Also, I have burned out two of the 12V AC/DC power supplies in the last week! (This is my second screen, because the first one arrived damaged. Kudos to ARC, though, for replacing it as it is quite pricey and expensive to ship for a tank this size). The power supply for the replacement screen started to fail on Wednesday, and caused the entire screen to start flickering. Rather than place a 'seizure warning' label on the tank I swapped it out for the power supply from the original screen. I had sent the screen to the dump, but kept the power supply 'just in case'.

OOTB I thought the replacement screen was a bit dim, but I think that has been a power supply issue from the start. Swapping out the power supply fixed the flickering, and the screen was quite a bit brighter, and it worked fine up until Friday night when I turned the screen off. Then yesterday, no amount of messing around with the power supply, the app permissions, or resetting the bluetooth controller would wake the screen up. Switched the power supply back to the one that flickers last night. That at least confirmed that the screen itself was functioning yesterday, and now the flickering/dim power supply is stone cold ☠️ this morning, too! I have a new 12V/5A power supply arriving from Amazon today. If I burn through that one as well I will just break out the multimeter and see if I can figure out what's going on. Not that LEDs draw a ton of power, but I am wondering if the screen is too much for the supplied cheap power supply. Who knows?

All that said, I do love the screen itself, and am glad I could find one. This one is ARC's RGB version, so the top and bottom of the screen can be independently color and brightness adjusted. I started out with it all white, but I actually like it with a base pale cyan blue at the bottom, too. It really does help to accentuate depth in the tank, and now the tank looks really weird when the backlight is off so I am really hoping this new power supply makes it less glitchy 🤞
 
Thank you @Naturescapes_Rocco! It's the little things that make life inside the aquarium cabinet less chaotic! This Dwyer bracket works perfectly! 😁

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Took me from the chaos of painters tape...

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To this!

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Plumb, level, and no longer falls off the side wall 😂
 
Ok, so I am pretty new to CO2 in general. This is my second tank with CO2, but the first tank was more of a fly-by-the-seat-of-my-pants just use a drop-checker approach.

Thanks to fellow crunchers here, and endless reading on the 2hr Aquarist, I think I am a teensy bit smarter now, but still wading through relatively uncharted waters for me.

Tank is about 10-11 days post planting. Some algae on older leaves that will be annihilated during tomorrow’s large water change, but I think I have things close to a coasting level. The one rather critical data point I am missing right now is ppm CO2. I am still waiting on the replacement base reagent for the LaMotte CO2 kit (I can't even tell that they actually shipped it), but my Hanna kit is out for delivery today, so I am hoping to test it later today and tomorrow.

In the meantime, I have been rearranging things in the cabinet for the umpteenth time, and at least gathering data on pH fluctuation throughout the photoperiod, and working to get that as stable as possible. As this is a majority slow-growing plants tank, with a few higher demand species, I am restraining the photoperiod to 6 hours total at the moment, including a 15 minutes ramp up/down.

My biggest surprise was my actual degassed pH level at 7.3. Apparently I wasn’t shaking my water sample hard enough or long enough before I sprung for the magnetic stirrer. Prior to that I was concerned about just how low my pH may have to go to accommodate a 1.2-1.5 pH drop, so definitely a few dollars well spent.

Then it came down to timing. The Apera has helped me immensely on that front. I started out injecting CO2 5 hours prior to the start of the photoperiod, but that seemed a smidge early. I have now shaved that down to 4, so that saves a few bubbles of gas. I am also turning CO2 off 2 hours prior to the end of the photo-period without too drastic a shift in pH at the end of the photoperiod (too early?). CO2 off to lights off is about 0.1-0.15 change in pH. Overall, I think I am in a good place (ppm’s pending of course) at least in regards to the shape of the curve. If I read Rocco’s dialing in CO2 docs correctly, I should be aiming to have CO2 equilibrium throughout the entire photoperiod, but not injecting too fast, or too late.

May 24, 2006  Measuring Values-pH vs. Time.webp

Photoperiod is 2:30P to 8:30P right now, with CO2 on at 10:30A, off at 6:30. Degassed (7.3) to equilibrium (5.8) has been consistent each day for the last several days, and the pH of the tank is consistently returning to 6.5 prior to injection resuming the following morning. So right now it's a 1.5 pH drop from degassed to equilibrium.

Only minor issue has been the flow meter not always coming back up to the right level, and drifting downward a little when CO2 first starts up, so still tweaking that a little. Otherwise, things seem stable, just need to see if it's enough with the CO2 titration once the new kit arrives. Think I might still be a little under based on the drop checker at the moment. We'll see...
 
I sort of do what Rocco suggests. My CO2 cuts on an hour before the lights come on, but even then there is an additional 30 minute ramp up of light. So my CO2 comes on 90 minutes before my lights are at full strength. When the lights fist come on, before the ramp, I test my CO2. I have the LaMotte kit. If my CO2 is at goal, I consider it good.

I am able to grow E quinquangulare and Blood Vomit which tend to be "canary" type plant indicators for CO2, so I feel like I'm doing OK.
 
I am overdue for an update. The tank is settling in post planting. Minimal diatoms, and a little light algae here an there due to some lighting issues. Some melted Buce and Crypts, not really a surprise. As much as I tried to leave things as stable as possible at the start, I did need to tweak my lighting a bit for the first couple of weeks after planting, and due to slower growth at the moment I switched out to APT 1. The Cyperus did ok, but the Eriocaulon feather duster did get a little algae due to the Vivids being up a bit a high. However, with water parameters nice and stable, and several large water changes in, I did finally spring the White Clouds out of quarantine jail. I have to say, these little fish, while being perceived as a common beginner fish, are really beautiful, and highly under-rated. Maybe a little energetic for this scape, but the scale of the tank suits them well. This clip from Instagram is just after I was done acclimating them, and about to transfer them. They are quite active, so will never be this easy to get video of again 🙃 I will update more on the tank itself in a couple of days, with video of them living their best life (they are fascinated with lily pipe outflows).

 
Gold White Cloud minnows are near the top of my list for one of my upcoming scapes.
I have never had white clouds of any variety until this build. I have to say, they are a bit derpy (in an adorable way), and very entertaining to watch! They are also really beautiful fish when they are all colored up, too.
 
At a month out from planting, I am happy with how things are going so far. Some minor startup issues, but overall the tank is settling down well. A lot of the buces melted back, although some of the Kedagang and Dark Venus still look ok. The dark start didn't seem to mitigate the buce melt much at all, and my diddling around with the CO2 and lighting at the start probably didn't help either, but the rhizomes seem solid, so it will be time and patience to see how they bounce back.

The tank did go through a short GDA and minor diatom phase across the sand, rocks, and glass, but considering the size of the tank, and the general lack of stem plants, controlling the lights, and dialing back the ferts a bit seems to have addressed the majority of that. It is highly unlikely these lights will ever run at 100% in this setup. Currently running at about 30%, and doing well.

I did add some Amanos last week, but they are small juveniles, and still in hiding. Their whereabouts at the moment is mostly determined by where they are rolling aquasoil out from behind the Hakkai stones, across the sand, in one corner of the tank at night. As much as I love the white clouds, they are a bit energetic, and overly curious, without much sense of a 'zone of personal space'. I totally understand why the Amanos aren't out and about a whole lot yet. The White Clouds are much larger than they are, and bit up in the Amanos business when they venture out. The Amanos are also why you see plastic wrap on the ends of the tank. That was just insurance to be sure no Amanos ended up crispy on the floor in their attempt to avoid the boisterous white clouds. The plastic wrap will probably come off with this Sunday's water change. It's not really the 'nature aquarium' aesthetic I am going for 🙃

In addition to the Amanos, I have added 12 Otocinclus 'Rio Tapiche' from Dan's Fish. I wanted a large enough group for them to feel comfortable, and with all the Cyperus and Eleocharis in the back, it will take a moderate crew to help keep all those grassy plants clean. They are settling in well, and constantly cruising and grazing around the tank.

When I initially planted the Cyperus helferi in the back, I ended up with a combination of some Tropica potted, and some ADA TC plants. It is what I could get at the time, and I only planted the healthiest plants I received. Two of the TC's promptly melted, and were replaced with some rather oversized potted Cyperus instead, the two tall clumps in the back, which is why the background is completely off balance at the moment. I expected to be frantically trimming the outer leaves on the Cyperus, so I didn't thin them out much at planting, but so far they seem super happy, and pretty much algae free. We'll see if that holds! The Montevidensis tends to be a slow starter, and hasn't grown much yet (also TC) that is mixed in with the Cyperus. The Crypt spiralis red on the far left is just starting to get a little bigger, but is also pretty slow, but they will get there, and the background should balance out over the next couple of months. The Eriocaulon 'feather duster', Eleocharis acicularis, and pusilla are all filling in well, though.

The Nymphaea zenkeri behind the driftwood is finally racing to the top of the tank, with substantial noticable growth every day now. As I am lean dosing with APT 1 at the moment, the leaves are also coloring up well. My intention is to let the Nymphaea in the back left behind the driftwood grow to the surface, for some cover, but the two in front I will keep trimmed to keep them lower down in the midground. We'll see how that goes.

Surprisingly, I have an Anubias gracilis that is doing just fine, despite some claims that it does better emersed, and I do like the more unique leaf shape. I am also really liking how the Persicaria Fasset Green I ordered from @Burr740 is growing in. I love the plant, but a purple persicaria didn't seem right for this tank, so I really appreciate that this variety will stay green, and just add a little different leaf texture. Had a little green algae on the bottom leaves for a couple of weeks, which has now resolved (or the otos ate it), and the new growth is looking really good.

My one headache has been the weeping moss on the driftwood. I am surprised at the amount of fuzz and film that this Manzanita has produced, and is still producing. It has been scrubbed several times, but where the film pushes through the moss, that area of moss seems to die off. I am going to let the wood settle down a bit more, and maybe the Amanos and Otos will clean things up a bit. Once the fuzz stops, I will just tie some fresh weeping moss to the driftwood in the bare patches. Some of it is looking better, especially on the lower right arch. The taller arch toward the left, the moss is still struggling in areas. Really fun when the moss cotton dissolves, and chunks drift into the skimmer!

Now that plants are pushing past the early transition phase I need to consider if/when to move back to APT 3. Although there are fish, they are nano fish in a very large tank, so their contribution to nitrates and phosphates I expect will be low.

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I just picked up a polarizing filter for my DSLR, so I am hoping to get some better photos with a real camera after the next water change 🤞 More soon...
 

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