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so from a co2 perspective I believe you use the precision regulator from Bettatail, the Dwyer flow meter and a horizontal reactor - correct? And you use the reactor in the second mode in your document covering reactors?
I ran my my Dwyer RMA-150 at about 40CC/min on my 140Gal "Many Lessons" tank. There are many factors that affect actual CO2 levels, though, so we can't really compare the level on the meter with what is actually comparable to our tanks.
I like using a lot of surface agitation:
so I also need more CO2/minute. Lots of oxygen and lots of CO2 is how I like it!
My 39gal, running at 40-45ppm CO2, requires about 25CC/min.
I have the same surface agitation on my 55 G or even a bit more, but I don't have a skimmer. In a few days I should receive an Oase Crystalskim 350 that hopefully will be enough to let me reduce the surface agitation a little bit.
Eventually I have found a second hand RMA 151 SSV on eBay (there was only one available in all EU), the day after tomorrow I will install it!
I aim to have ~35+ppm CO2 by the time lights come on, and ~40ppm for the entire photoperiod duration. This is also with super high lighting.
My drop checker is lime green at lights on, and genuine yellow for the rest of the photoperiod.
so from a co2 perspective I believe you use the precision regulator from Bettatail, the Dwyer flow meter and a horizontal reactor - correct? And you use the reactor in the second mode in your document covering reactors?
Yes, the CO2 flows from the regulator's precision needle valve, to the flow meter, to the horizontal reactor. I've run multiple horizontal reactors in both "overflow" mode, and "regulator" mode. Regulator mode is awesome because you can get 100% CO2 use with no waste, but requires manual gas bubble purging 1-2 times per week. Overflow mode is awesome because once you get it dialed in, especially with a flow meter and good needle valve, you literally never have to do anything to it. The only downside is you're wasting some % of CO2, but the cost is probably an extra $5-$10 per month.
For my next tank setup, I plan to run the reactor in overflow mode for the ease of use and peace of mind. I'd gladly pay an extra $5-$10 per month in CO2 costs to have consistent, labor-free CO2 injection!
That's a tricky question. Most of us don't really know the precise amount.
In my case because I have so little dKH the charts and calculators don't really work well. When I was at about 2 dKH they would say my CO2 was at about 80ppm. Was it really? I don't know and never bothered to buy a CO2 test kit.
In general use the pH drop method. In my case my pH drop from CO2 injection is 1.4. I came to that by slowly dropping pH until the fish just starting showed signs of stress, then backed it off a little. Whatever that level is I don't know for sure but it works.
If you don't know what the pH drop method is......ask. There are plenty here who are glad to help.
I'm not that interested in doing the math, but at first glance, I think your cost estimate is on the high side. If a 5lb tank costs about $30 to refill and lasts over 4 months, even in overflow mode, it's hard to imagine that big of a cost difference to regulator mode.
If you want the most glorious plants like Rocco has and you find the maintenance and upkeeping tending to be all part of the fun, as Rocco says 35 to 40 PPM will get you there
If you want quieter growth, 15 PPM with blue green to teal drop checker does great!
As long as you have some kh, the Hanna CO2 tester will tell you exactly what you have. If you're getting down in the 0° to 1° KH it's not quite as accurate but still helpful.
Here's @Dennis Wong's CO2 library, to give you some context!
That's a tricky question. Most of us don't really know the precise amount.
In my case because I have so little dKH the charts and calculators don't really work well. When I was at about 2 dKH they would say my CO2 was at about 80ppm. Was it really? I don't know and never bothered to buy a CO2 test kit.
In general use the pH drop method. In my case my pH drop from CO2 injection is 1.4. I came to that by slowly dropping pH until the fish just starting showed signs of stress, then backed it off a little. Whatever that level is I don't know for sure but it works.
If you don't know what the pH drop method is......ask. There are plenty here who are glad to help.
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