Social Feed

Hello guys I’m wondering how can I know that I’m not giving too little or too much micros or accumulating them to abnormal levels, I have the hanna digital test for fe however someone was saying that it doesn’t detect all forms of it. So what can I do about it? Because as far as I can remember someone was saying plants line reneickii mini is sensitive to high fe levels

Hello everybody im new here and wanted to introduce my tank,

The tank is a 350 liter Juwel rio (120x50x60)
Pretty high tank but wanted to have 50 cm wide

Lights: 3 daytime onex (1x plant 2x colour)
Good for 180 par at the bottom, 1.5 hour build up/5 hours full and 1.5 hour build off

Co2 by Inline with a co2art series pro dual stage regulator dropping 1.4 in ph

Filtration: 2 external filters (1x crystal profi 900, 1x tetra ex 1500 on a spraybar) and a eheim skim 350

Substrate: mastersoil black powder with masterline root tabs

Fertilizer: apt e

Fish: cherry barbels, siamese algae eaters, kuhli, ottociclus and some bloody mary shrimps

Plants: rotala macandra, anubias tinto, reineckii mini, reineckki rosenarvig, rotala blood red, ludwigia repens super red, bacopa carolinia, lobelia cardinalis, crypto flamingo, crypto rosen maiden, staurogene repens, spiralus tiger, ludwigia inclinata meta, samolus parvifloris red.
Might have forgotten something

Currently battling algae and unhappy plants due to nutrient inbalances and a no3 tester that was not correct.

Under a pic of the current state and the state it was a little better in balance (not as it should tho)

Is there a magic number of fert to give after a what change? Is it 3x the amount that I give during any day of the week?
Example: I give 1ml every day then after a 50% water change should I give 3x (so 3ml?)

This setup is too crazy to not share - enjoy!

One of the many benefits of our growing community is the ability to share and use our collective knowledge and experiences. Let's start to capture the lights that we are using so that future members can reach out if we have the same light they want to use.

Please select your light manufacturer (you can select more than one) and then make a post with your model numbers.

"Tell me. And remember, this is for posterity, so be honest." Bonus points for who knows where that's from (don't Google or AI it ).

Yesterday I did a 75 percent water change and cleaned my cannister filter for the first time. It was filthy. I just rinsed everything in the dirty water then put it all back together. I also trimmed and re planted a good bit of my plants. I replaced my water with distilled water that I had added shrimp mineral and apt 3 to. This morning I’m showing .25 ammonia on my api test. I’ve never had an issue with ammonia before and am curious how to proceed. Should I do another water change?

I have been sitting with hardscaping this UNS 90u tank (35.43”L x 22.”W x 22”H) for about 5 weeks. It's tall and deep and I have a perfect view of it from my office desk at the perfect height! The plan is for a high tech, heavily planted tank. I have a big load of different varieties of bucephalandra and anubias arriving in a few weeks that should go great on this hardscape and I am building my plan for the other plants. Here are my final 3 drafts on the hardscape. I am afraid the upper middle quadrant of the tank may have too much empty space being held with leggy stem plants growing towards the light. #1 and #3 seem to be the best choices, with #3 seeming the best. I need to finalize and get this tank filled with water! Any critiques from this experienced bunch?

Substrate: Gravel with root tabs
CO2: Yes
Light: Chirios WRGB2 Pro 90
Hardscapre: Dragon Stone and Driftwood
Filter: Oase Biomaster 2 600 (already fishless cycling on 20 gallon tub from home depot)


I appreciate the feedback.

This thread is for the general discussion of the classified ad Cryptocoryne Pink Flamingo. Please add to the discussion here.

I'm having quite a bit of trouble with the subtle shade differences in the Nitrate test kits. I've tried API, NT, and Salifert to no avail; I'm guessing most of the time. As much as I'd like a Hanna HI97728, the $525 price doesn't fit the budget. I've seen a few anecdotal reports that the HI782 Marine Nitrate High Range Checker is viable in freshwater. Any firsthand experience?

I'm already using the Hanna PO4 Checker; for me, it's been a game-changer for readability.