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Hello guys what could be the cause of pale new growth?

Following @Dennis Wong advise to hold growth variables as steady as possible to avoid transition stress has been my single greatest tool to aquatic plant success.

I am fortunate to have Tap Water that is consistent all season with 6 ppm Ca, 1 ppm Mg day in day out all year. It is consistent because the water utility adds most of the Calcium and Magnesium in it.. the source water is extremely soft. The head of the water department has told me it never gets close to their target. They continually test and adjust the feed to hit target.

It is simple enough for me to just add gypsum and epsom salt to boost it to what I want.

Helping a fellow member here who is starting a 75 gallon tank in an apartment. Ro unit is simply not an option for him in the apartment for now. schlepping bottles of RO for a 75 gallon would also be a hardship. It is a tank just for family enjoyment and not intended to be a competition tank. He will be dosing diy ferts, high light and co2.

His public water supply has an average DGH of 8 with reasonable calcium magnesium balance. But the Seasonal variation is between 4.5 DGH and 11.2 DGH…

In the situation where RO is not currently an option what would peoples responses be?

At 8 DGH steady throughout the year, I would probably just go with it.

It would be easy enough to test tap water DGH before doing a water change. It would be easy enough to create a table to alter how much to-adjust gypsum and epsom salts as tap water hardness decreases with seasonal shifts down to 4.5. But the question is for the times it hops upwards to high end of range.

One could schlepp bottles for those weeks and hope those weeks are outliers…

Or one could simply target a higher DGH all of the time in the interest of stability..

So I understand the potential issues, but not enough of what numbers matter…

Am I overthinking? I know @Dennis Wong has said the Carbonate hardness has a bigger impact on plant health than General Hardness,

Is ranging General Hardness less of a concern?

Water report indicates 3.5 DKH with no report regarding seasonal variation..

Edit: Newest tank starts here: Journal - Kwyet’s 125 / now 140G Nature Tank

——

This was one of the first tanks I set back up when we moved into our new house. As such, it was done very quickly so I could get it re-cycled and the fish in ASAP. Surprisingly, even though the filter sponges were just kept damp in plastic bags for 4 days, cycling took less than a week. I was NOT going to try to catch the pictus catfishes again, so I just lowered the water level in their holding tubs and poured them in. These guys are vocal when annoyed, so I assure you that I could hear them cussing at me, lol!

Here’s one of the last pictures of the tank before moving:



And here is what it looked like after the move in August 2024:



It left a lot to be desired, and while the painted blue background looked fine with my blue walls in Florida, it doesn’t look as good here with beige walls. I wasn’t going to move it out and scrape away the paint though, so it is what it is.

At this point I believe it had 1 angelfish (kept because it swims off-kilter), 1 Denison barb (kept because of a small white growth on chin since it was a baby), 2 old bronze Cory cats (because of age), and 3 Spotted Pictus catfish (because they were hard to acquire), 2 Super Red Bristlenose Plecos and 1 Glo-fish Rainbow shark (just because, lol!).

More to come.

I asked this question in a recent thread but it received no traction, so maybe it deserves its own thread. .........

When planting newly received emersed growth stem plants could it not be beneficial to leave the leaves on the stem of the section to be buried ? Yes these leaves will rot but could this not be possibly providing a useful ammonia source for the newly introduced plant and promote root development etc ? What evidence do we actually have of the pros and cons of doing this ? I must admit that do trim as Naturescapes_Rocco has suggested in another thread, by removing all leaves apart from a small top section but every time I do, it always makes me wonder about this factor.

I can see all the benefits of not leaving any excess emersed growth leaves on the exposed part of the stem but on the actual buried part of the stem could it possibly be even beneficial ??

Long-time lurker in the hobby. I’ve been chewing on an idea for a website (maybe a weekly newsletter too) that’s focused purely on curated aquascape inspiration — not another feed to scroll, but something with an actual point of view: why a scape works, what makes the hardscape/planting choices interesting, styles worth studying, that kind of thing.

Before I build anything, wanted to ask people who’d actually use it:

• Where do you currently go for aquascape inspiration — Instagram, YouTube, forums, contest archives?

• Does that already fully scratch the itch, or is there something missing (context, explanation, curation vs. just a feed)?

• Would a smaller, curated site/newsletter add anything for you, or does it feel redundant with what’s already out there?

• Would you ever visit or subscribe to something like that regularly, or is it a “look at once, forget” kind of thing?

Genuinely trying to figure out if this fills a real gap or if I’d just be adding noise to a space that’s already well served. All takes welcome, including “this already exists” or “nobody needs this.”

This is my first time using a reactor. I have a Landen 100p (40x18x18 inches) and just received my Aqua Rocks Colorado Stainless Yugang Reactor. I had a spare Eheim 4+ 350 so it's now hooked to that with just foam filtration. My other filter is an Oase Biomaster Thermo 600 with an 850 head. I'm a little confused on the initial setup. I have my Co2 turning on at 9:30am, lights on 12-8pm. I have the offsets at 50% of the reactor, and the surface area is 4 inches larger than the calculations said I needed.

I know that contact time is the factor so my Eheim is about 50% flow. Do I initially increase the Co2 rate to purge the air out of the reactor, then dial it back so i'm seeing off-gassing every minute once I'm reaching my ppm? I'm using a Co2 Art Elite Pro regulator. My psi sits between 35-40 on a 20lb tank. Co2 is easy for me to get and cheap so I'm not concerned with excess. There's not a lot of information I can find on these so anything helps. Thanks for reading!

Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @dmitrysokolovvet!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?

Long-time lurker in the hobby. I’ve been chewing on an idea for a website (maybe a weekly newsletter too) that’s focused purely on curated aquascape inspiration — not another feed to scroll, but something with an actual point of view: why a scape works, what makes the hardscape/planting choices interesting, styles worth studying, that kind of thing.

Before I build anything, wanted to ask people who’d actually use it:

• Where do you currently go for aquascape inspiration — Instagram, YouTube, forums, contest archives?

• Does that already fully scratch the itch, or is there something missing (context, explanation, curation vs. just a feed)?

• Would a smaller, curated site/newsletter add anything for you, or does it feel redundant with what’s already out there?

• Would you ever visit or subscribe to something like that regularly, or is it a “look at once, forget” kind of thing?

Genuinely trying to figure out if this fills a real gap or if I’d just be adding noise to a space that’s already well served. All takes welcome, including “this already exists” or “nobody needs this.”

Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @Vis123!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?

This is not a step by step tutorial, more for inspiration and general information!

My very first DIY stand was a 100cm two-door home-depot plywood stand. It looks fine in pictures, but was NOT up to the insanely high, unhealthy standards of excellence that I hold myself to with everything:



No journal for this old tank.

The lesson here was: don’t use home depot plywood! It sucks. Find a real plywood dealer and spend the extra $.

My next stand was way more ambitious: a 150cm x 60cm stand, designed to hold up 2400+ lbs, made from quality baltic birch plywood. 3 doors, two interior weight-bearing vertical panels, adjustable leveling feet. It worked great, and can be seen in my two journals Many Lessons and Inert Sand Trials:


I did a WAY better job on this stand, and it now resides with @Kwyet ! Also, a spray finish really makes a big difference.

After that, the 90cm Experiment Tank stand. Two doors, and instead of a cumbersome middle panel, I used one hefty plywood column:


Scottish accent Fookin' crispay



This tank also had a waterproof, sealed bottom “rim” so up to 2cm of water would have to fill the stand bottom before it overflows. Useful for emergencies or leaks, when combined with loud water leak alarms! This stand and tank is in my garage, soon to be sold to anyone in Colorado who wants it!

The new 120cm stand:​

This stand is for my new 120cm tank! This stand is the culmination of seven years of stand-making. All of my mistakes, lessons, preferences, and skills were combined to make the stand of my dreams!

And of course, I had to move homes and got seriously injured, requiring surgery, while I was trying to finish it. Sorry for the lack of pictures!

I would not say this design is beginner friendly. It’s not expert, but likely intermediate difficulty. I have a Wen track saw and a Sawstop PCS Cabinet saw, which changes the entire process compared to someone working with more difficult tools. I also have a Graco Magnum X7 paint sprayer for a professional paint finish.

First, I started with mocking up the stand in Shapr3D, my modeling program:


My local lumber company had really good deals on 5x5’ sheets of ¾” baltic birch plywood.

IT IS CRITICAL for precision woodworking like this (no trim to cover up mistakes) to get exact measurements, particularly for the thickness of the plywood. For example, using a pair of digital calipers, this 3/4" plywood was 17.8mm thick (0.7 in a lot smaller than .75"), which is what I used in my modeling program to create the exact length of cuts to properly span 120cm long and 60cm deep.

I collected the exact measurements of each part needed, and threw it into Opticutter to determine how to best cut my 5x5’ plywood sheets:


You don't need to study these sheets; the photos are just to show you how Opticutter works to save you from creating too much waste, and using the fewest cuts!

Steps I followed for this stand:​

1. Cut all panels using table/track saw.
2. Make 4-ply support column. Make notch cut ~145mm from top of column to fit behind front brace. Glue and trim/clean.
3. Cut out "access holes" in panels, including pocket holes for front and back brace, predrilled holes for front brace (in middle, and upper portion for future front panel) and predrilled holes for back panel. Use a router with roundover bit to create round, smooth holes for cord and tubing access, as well as handles for moving the stand around!
4. Run the "standing height "of the side and back panels (and 4-ply center column) through table saw to make uniform height for all 4 parts. All of these 4 parts should be cut to the exactly same height.
5. Trim door “finger-pull” with a router. Just a 45-degree "slice" off the door's corner to make a finger pull.
6. To assemble: Flip top upside down, test fit sides and back, secure with screws. Make front edge flush, back can be trimmed down with router flush bit if necessary.
7. Attach the bottom panel, Make front edge flush, as the back can be trimmed down.
8. Add 4-ply column, ensure front edge flush.
9. Add front and back "braces".
10. Add front panel, and bottom "lips" that hold any spilled water in.
11. Spray and sand stand, fill gaps with Bondo wood filler. Sand and repeat until corners, cracks and divots are smooth.
12. Caulk the inner corners where water would be.
13. Paint stand and doors.
14. Attach doors.
15. Add feet.
16. Run electrical and LED strips.
17. Cut foam mat to size.

Here's some of the steps in the modeling program:


4-plywood-thick center column, with "notch" for the front brace to fit flush:


Top down first on a flat, even surface, then add sides and back:



Flip right-side-up, and add the bottom panel:



Add the rear brace, the front brace, and the center column. Make sure the front brace and column are flush with the front of the top/back panel edges.


Add the front panel and bottom lip pieces:


For the doors, create a notched finger pull (side view):


Door hinge stuff:

• Blum Clip top Blumotion Full Overlay, 110° euro style hinges
• Kreg hinge jig

And it's done! Here's some of the few pictures I DID take of this process, sorry! I had a lot going on:

Gluing the 4-ply-thick center column:


To make the access holes in the back and side panels, I 3D printed some plastic guides for my router bit to follow, then roughly cut the inside out so the router had less material to work through:


Perfect routered holes:



I learned to score the plywood with my box cutter first, so when it chipped from the rough jigsaw cut, it chipped ONLY to the scored lines:



I removed the excess interior material with the jigsaw, then routered. I also used a roundover bit (in process on the left hole, right hole not rounded):

Any chips or imperfections could be fixed later with bondo wood filler and sanding.


Once I had my access holes cut out, I could assemble! I used clamps to hold the panels together and flush, used an Incra T-Rule (amazing device) to mark a line that was the middle of my plywood panel's core:



Then, I drilled countersink holes with this bit for the screw heads to sit below the level of the wood:



Screws:
Since the screws on the top, bottom, and rear of the stand would never be visible, I decided to skip the annoying "pocket screw and glue" scenario and just go with crazy robust torx-head 1.5” construction screws. I LOVED it. Definitely my preferred method, though they really do require pre-drilling AND drilling countersink heads. Still, way stronger than pocket screws my god.

• SPAX #8, 1-1/2" Interior Flat Head Torx Wood Screws
• INCRA T-Ruler 6 inch for marking my ~8.9mm line (middle of the plywood core I was screwing into).

Wood filling and Priming:
Bondo wood filler is amazing stuff. I used TONS of it, this was just the first pass:

Apply, sand, apply more, sand more.


Then I primed with Sherwin Williams Gallery Series primer, and sprayed with a TrueAirless 515 tip in my Magnum X7:


Once the primer was dry, I sanded it, and sprayed again. Once dry, sanded again. Lots of sanding:



I wiped the tank down with tack cloth, then went for the finishing coat using a Graco FFLP 310 Tip and Sherwin-Williams Gallery Series Waterborne Topcoat in true black. Probably a matte or satin sheen, I can’t recall. Not cheap, good paint! Make sure to filter your paint through a find mesh before spraying.



By far the best, most perfect finish I've ever had on a stand. BTW, the doors are fully adjustable up, down, left and right to get them nicely aligned. Blum hinges rock!



Once it was all put together, I got some help to move it into the new house. And installed the oversized Aquarium Mat.

I paid Tommy, the owner of Aqua Rocks Colorado, a delivery fee to have my custom 120x60x50cm tank delivered and installed on the stand. Once positioned evenly around all sides, I trimmed the aquarium mat with an Xacto knife, and was finished!

I'm tired today, but I'll upload more pics of this stand soon to this thread and to the 120cm Journal, too!

Questions? Ask below! I love to help out.​