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Another Yugang Reactor Post/question.

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This is my first time using a reactor. I have a Landen 100p (40x18x18 inches) and just received my Aqua Rocks Colorado Stainless Yugang Reactor . I had a spare Eheim 4+ 350 so it's now hooked to that with just foam filtration. My other filter is an Oase Biomaster Thermo 600 with an 850 head. I'm a little confused on the initial setup. I have my Co2 turning on at 9:30am, lights on 12-8pm. I have the offsets at 50% of the reactor, and the surface area is 4 inches larger than the calculations said I needed.

I know that contact time is the factor so my Eheim is about 50% flow. Do I initially increase the Co2 rate to purge the air out of the reactor, then dial it back so i'm seeing off-gassing every minute once I'm reaching my ppm? I'm using a Co2 Art Elite Pro regulator. My psi sits between 35-40 on a 20lb tank. Co2 is easy for me to get and cheap so I'm not concerned with excess. There's not a lot of information I can find on these so anything helps. Thanks for reading!
 
Do I initially increase the Co2 rate to purge the air out of the reactor, then dial it back so i'm seeing off-gassing every minute once I'm reaching my ppm?
In general, yes!
If your reactor is purged of air and filled with only water, the CO2 will quickly get dissolved. That means that in the first few hours, you won't see much purging if any at all -- however, after 6-12 hours of consistent use, or even a day or two later, the air pocket that is the result of oxygen and nitrogen gasses building up will help make the purging a bit more consistent.

Still, it's hard to dial these reactors in when you first start injecting CO2 -- I'd recommend injecting just enough to see it start purging, then back the dial down, and come back in an hour or two. If the reactor is just purging every few minutes, you'll know you've got it set well! Keep an eye on your inhabitants.

BTW, this is why I'm a huge proponent of clear reactors, as they let you see what's going on inside to deduce how your CO2 injection is really going, or if that oxygen/nitrogen/CO2 gas bubble is present or not.
 
BTW, this is why I'm a huge proponent of clear reactors, as they let you see what's going on inside to deduce how your CO2 injection is really going, or if that oxygen/nitrogen/CO2 gas bubble is present or not.

Yes, agreed.

In general, in answer to Simba3000, Rocco basically nailed it. First purge out the initial air bubble in the reactor to fill it with CO2. Then dial right back down until the reactor is purging every minute or two. Take it slow and measure/observe the tank a lot. Increase CO2 bubble surface area (and CO2 injection rate to match) until equilibrium CO2 concentrations are where you want them. Even if it goes well, this is likely to take a few days.

If you are having problems with noise or random purging of large amounts of gas from the reactor then its generally a clue that the water flow rate through it might well be too high. The gas bubble level in the reactor will only sit nicely and consistently at the top level of the outlet port if the water flow is not too high. If the water flow is too high then you can get a whirlpool type effect sucking gas down from the reactor bubble into the outlet port when the water surface level is well above it - you can actually see this with a transparent reactor.
 
This has been very helpful. Thank you both. I do wish I went with the acrylic version, but previous employment immediately pushed me to the stainless (professional brewer). Yesterday after coming home from work, I noticed a lot of bubbles around my downfacing lily pipe. Drop checker was green, but on the darker side of what was typical with my inline diffuser. I'm going to pick up one of the Hannah kits I've seen mentioned on here. I noticed bubbles every few seconds. I don't believe I purged long enough yesterday. Then increased the flow rate on the canister just a bit and a massive air purge released. I turned up the needle valve almost to my original rate, and the bubbles decreased with a minute or more apart. I'm going to let it ride where it's at today, then do a water change tonight as I work from home on Fridays so I'll be able to keep on eye on the progress tomorrow. I appreciate the responses and time. I hope these style reactors grow in popularity with more how to guides.
 
Yes, agreed.

In general, in answer to Simba3000, Rocco basically nailed it. First purge out the initial air bubble in the reactor to fill it with CO2. Then dial right back down until the reactor is purging every minute or two. Take it slow and measure/observe the tank a lot. Increase CO2 bubble surface area (and CO2 injection rate to match) until equilibrium CO2 concentrations are where you want them. Even if it goes well, this is likely to take a few days.

If you are having problems with noise or random purging of large amounts of gas from the reactor then its generally a clue that the water flow rate through it might well be too high. The gas bubble level in the reactor will only sit nicely and consistently at the top level of the outlet port if the water flow is not too high. If the water flow is too high then you can get a whirlpool type effect sucking gas down from the reactor bubble into the outlet port when the water surface level is well above it - you can actually see this with a transparent reactor.
I have a question about the flow rate. My reactor is connected to a secondary filter, Eheim Pro 4+ 350 set to just below 50% on the knob. I understand there's other factors in hose length and head height. But I'm wondering if it's better to have a lower flow rate if I'm getting bubbles quicker than a minute apart. Or is too low detrimental?
 
I have a question about the flow rate. My reactor is connected to a secondary filter, Eheim Pro 4+ 350 set to just below 50% on the knob. I understand there's other factors in hose length and head height. But I'm wondering if it's better to have a lower flow rate if I'm getting bubbles quicker than a minute apart. Or is too low detrimental?
Slower calm flow through a Yugang reactor is best.
 
I have taken to turning the pressure regulator up as high as it goes on a horizontal reactor and purging the container until overflow out the outlet, then backing off needle valve for a burp every 5 seconds. Then just a wee bit more. Burp maybe every 10 seconds. At that point I leave the needle valve alone since it is so dang touchy and it is hard to get much useful feedback from the bubble counter…

I then proceed to dial back the regulator 2-5 psi and come back in an hour or so and time the purges and dial back the pressure regulator until I see a purge every minute to minute and a half.

Then further fine tune a few days later as tank equalizes into a stable rhythim.

One beauty of the horizontal reactor is that it doesnt need an optimal pressure to work like a ceramic diffuser does…. And it doesnt have a ceramic diffuser to clog up decreasing your injection rate over time until you bleach jt again..
 

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