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Rockstar
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Just wanted to share this info,
I'm looking to get my new 120C tank setup (120x60x50cm), and for a moment I thought "Why not? Why shouldn't I go back to using aquasoil?".
To reach an aquasoil depth of ~3" across the entire tank (pretty thin for aquasoil), the cost would be about $420 at the standard $7-per-Liter of aquasoil (most brands charge this value, some more!).
On the other end of the spectrum, it would cost about $24 to get a depth of 4" with BDBS (inert blasting sand, the substrate I've been trying in my tanks for the last two years) from my local supplier.
I think I'll be putting that other $400 towards something else!
I'm looking to get my new 120C tank setup (120x60x50cm), and for a moment I thought "Why not? Why shouldn't I go back to using aquasoil?".
To reach an aquasoil depth of ~3" across the entire tank (pretty thin for aquasoil), the cost would be about $420 at the standard $7-per-Liter of aquasoil (most brands charge this value, some more!).
On the other end of the spectrum, it would cost about $24 to get a depth of 4" with BDBS (inert blasting sand, the substrate I've been trying in my tanks for the last two years) from my local supplier.
I think I'll be putting that other $400 towards something else!
7 Replies
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These are my erios after two months of growth. It seems to me that it has already produced plantlets, but it’s nowhere near its adult size as a plant. Should I be splitting now to prevent overcrowding? Or should I wait until the clump has reached its adult size?
19 Replies
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170 views
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Rockstar
What tools do you all use to clean algae of the glass ? I use Mr.Clean magic eraser, tooth brush and a razor glass scraper.
I have been looking to get a mag float and see if there is an upgrade pic over a standard stainless steel scraper you would get on amazon.
TIA
I have been looking to get a mag float and see if there is an upgrade pic over a standard stainless steel scraper you would get on amazon.
TIA
12 Replies
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869 views
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Rockstar
Article Contributor
Skip to the actual journal here.
I'm known here for high tech, high nutrient, inert substrate scapes -- but I also love NO tech, rich substrate scapes, too!
This thread is three-sided:
But there is a new modern kind of fish bowl, one where plants, substrate, bacteria, water changes, and proper inhabitant selection all work together to create healthy, mini ecosystem-worlds in our homes:
My first bowl attempt in 2020
My second bowl, a true "no tech" in 2021
My third bowl scape (no tech) in 2023, and by far my favorite and most successful!
The point is, these are smaller, affordable, beautiful little worlds of light to enliven our living spaces and create art, nature, and beauty -- often with very little maintenance and upkeep besides a partial water change and feeding the fish.
quano_aqua on Insta
waterplantslover on insta
hanahiyori1112 on insta
Sono aqua pfm on Insta and on Youtube is one of the pioneers of this method, and
deserves a TON of credit for popularizing this technique across many Japanese communities!
kazuaki387 on insta
qball_aquatics on insta has many small bowl scapes.
Nanoscape on insta
syo_aqua_plants on insta follows the "Sono" method.
Aquadream in Vietnam on insta and on Youtube has TONS of no-tech bowl scapes.
Almost 20 bowls in his store/gallery. Lots of info on his youtube channel!
pokomama_medaka on insta
tinyecosystems_ on insta, also sells "kits" to make your own tiny ecosystem jars.
the_bettabowl_project on insta
MJ Aquascaping bowl on youtube, beautiful setup.
MJ Aquascaping vase on Youtube
MD Fishtanks on Youtube has done a few planted no tech bowls
aquashopuha on insta
jp72363 on insta
y0shi_n9 on Insta
kermitDE on Reddit
buiscape on insta has a tiny Fluval bowl scape with crabs!
nakayamachiyomi on insta
ichistarium on insta
chandan0616 on instagram
Few-Focus8050 on Reddit
KrishTheBaker on Reddit and on Youtube
@HardeeParty here on Scape Crunch
@bradquade here on Scape Crunch
10-gal bowl featured on Tank Tested on Youtube
And that's just the ones I have found over the last few years! I have no doubt there are many, many more out there.
I'll add to this thread as I find them, and would love it if you would, too!
I'm known here for high tech, high nutrient, inert substrate scapes -- but I also love NO tech, rich substrate scapes, too!
This thread is three-sided:
- To act as a journal for my new No-Tech bowl scape, and
- To act as a discussion board for no/low tech bowl scapes, and
- To collect and share accounts and examples of bowl scapes from around the world!
But there is a new modern kind of fish bowl, one where plants, substrate, bacteria, water changes, and proper inhabitant selection all work together to create healthy, mini ecosystem-worlds in our homes:
My first bowl attempt in 2020
My second bowl, a true "no tech" in 2021
My third bowl scape (no tech) in 2023, and by far my favorite and most successful!
What does No Tech mean?
In general, it means that these scapes have:- No Filter
- No Heater
- No Air Pump
- No Skimmer
- No CO2
- No Circulation
- A Light (usually low to medium-powered)
- A Substrate (inert, aquasoil, or sand-capped soil like Walstad method)
- Plants (usually quite low-tech plants, though a surprising number will thrive in this method!)
- Inhabitants (Since these bowls are usually between 2-12 gallons on average, this limits selection to nano fish, shrimp, and snails).
The point is, these are smaller, affordable, beautiful little worlds of light to enliven our living spaces and create art, nature, and beauty -- often with very little maintenance and upkeep besides a partial water change and feeding the fish.
Gallery and Links to bowl scapers:
quano_aqua on Insta
waterplantslover on insta
hanahiyori1112 on insta
Sono aqua pfm on Insta and on Youtube is one of the pioneers of this method, and
deserves a TON of credit for popularizing this technique across many Japanese communities!
kazuaki387 on insta
qball_aquatics on insta has many small bowl scapes.
Nanoscape on insta
syo_aqua_plants on insta follows the "Sono" method.
Aquadream in Vietnam on insta and on Youtube has TONS of no-tech bowl scapes.
Almost 20 bowls in his store/gallery. Lots of info on his youtube channel!
pokomama_medaka on insta
tinyecosystems_ on insta, also sells "kits" to make your own tiny ecosystem jars.
the_bettabowl_project on insta
MJ Aquascaping bowl on youtube, beautiful setup.
MJ Aquascaping vase on Youtube
MD Fishtanks on Youtube has done a few planted no tech bowls
aquashopuha on insta
jp72363 on insta
y0shi_n9 on Insta
kermitDE on Reddit
buiscape on insta has a tiny Fluval bowl scape with crabs!
nakayamachiyomi on insta
ichistarium on insta
chandan0616 on instagram
Few-Focus8050 on Reddit
KrishTheBaker on Reddit and on Youtube
@HardeeParty here on Scape Crunch
@bradquade here on Scape Crunch
10-gal bowl featured on Tank Tested on Youtube
And that's just the ones I have found over the last few years! I have no doubt there are many, many more out there.
I'll add to this thread as I find them, and would love it if you would, too!
57 Replies
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3474 views
Staff member
I Donated 2026
Founding Member
Hello Welcome, agel68
Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @agel68!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
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I Donated 2026
Rockstar
1. When mixing @Burr740's macros/micros with a gallon jug of distilled water, the result will equal more than a gallon. DUH! 1.3 gallon HDPE jugs on order.
2. Wearing nitrile gloves is probably a good idea when mixing anything, but that's especially true when mixing macros and you have an open cut on your hand. Ouch, that stings!
The good news, I'm one step closer to filling up the next tank. Hopefully tomorrow.
2. Wearing nitrile gloves is probably a good idea when mixing anything, but that's especially true when mixing macros and you have an open cut on your hand. Ouch, that stings!
The good news, I'm one step closer to filling up the next tank. Hopefully tomorrow.
7 Replies
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120 views
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I Donated 2026
Rockstar
Article Contributor
The 2hrAquarist legend Dennis Wong tested the Hanna Test Kit vs a $3,000+ CO2 testing device and found accurate results in low kH aquasoil based tanks when compared. $30 for CO2 readings vs $3,000+!
It's a simple kit that comes with simple instructions, two differently sized vials for different detection ranges, a titration syringe phenolphthalein indicator, and an NaOH solution of some unknown concentration to titrate with.
For the range of detection on the Hanna CO2 test kit we want (0-50ppm):
- Add 10mL of aquarium water to the small flask. Add 1 drop phenolphthalein and swirl gently.
- With the titration syringe (markings are "reversed" from traditional syringes), add the NaOH solution dropwise and swirl gently until color goes from clear to pink. Don't shake/agitate, or you will de-gas your CO2 concentration.
- For the 50ppm detection range, multiply the number on the syringe by 50 to get your result (if you used 0.4mL NaOH to turn the vial pink, you would have 20ppm CO2).
My findings:
It seems to be "accurate" based on my comparisons with 1) drop checkers, 2) my pH reading/meter, and 3) the inhabitant-response (fish gasping at 35+ppm, shrimp uncomfortable at 30ppm+). It's not perfectly accurate (±5ppm), but it does a good "instant" job at giving some information in about 1-2 minutes. The kit also comes with enough for MANY, many tests (at least a hundred). For $30 I think it should become standard equipment for most CO2-injecting hobbyists.I was worried about interactions with other acids in the flask, and I'm sure there are a few, but in clean, low-kH water, it doesn't seem like a problem. I found some stuff online from published journal articles about how there are no other worrisome strong acids to compete with the NaOH and that the CO2 readings from NaOH titration are generally accepted as accurate (in peer-reviewed journals). Not a silver bullet for CO2 testing, but really helps me get an understanding of my tank and keep it dialed in.
How I use it
- If I want a quick glance of CO2 concentration for whatever reason in that moment (e.g., my fish are lethargic or shimp are at the surface).
OR, the more complex way using it to dial in CO:
- Day 1 of CO2 on a new tank: I keep an eye on inhabitants and their behaviors (to make sure I don't over-inject) and I test 2-3 times throughout the day. The most important is the test done right before the CO2 shuts off, which would be the maximum CO2 level for the day. As long as I didn't get to "true yellow" on my Drop Checker, I hopefully plateaued in terms of injection, finding the equilibrium between injection and off-gassing.
- On Day 2: CO2 comes on 1-3 hours before the photoperiod. I compare the CO2 readings at the very start of the photoperiod, once during, and once at the end. A quick estimative plot on the graph should tell me if I'm at/around equilibrium.
- For example, if my tank tests 6-10ppm CO2 before the solenoid turns on, then 20ppm when the lights come on, then 25ppm halfway through the photoperiod, and 30ppm by the end of the photoperiod, I know I'm somewhere in the proper "zone" (highlighted in pale yellow):
- For example, if my tank tests 6-10ppm CO2 before the solenoid turns on, then 20ppm when the lights come on, then 25ppm halfway through the photoperiod, and 30ppm by the end of the photoperiod, I know I'm somewhere in the proper "zone" (highlighted in pale yellow):
- On Day 3: I double-check the measurement at the start of the photoperiod, during, and at the end of the CO2 injection. As long as all 3 are close/approaching 30ppm, we're good!
On general timing of CO2 injection in this hobby:
I continue to hear/read from reputable sources about how plants use the most CO2-per-hour in the first 3-4 hours of the photoperiod, which is why it's so important to have CO2 injection reach/near 30ppm @ equilibrium between injection and off-gassing.
Many beginners inject too little, or start injecting too late relative to their photoperiod. As Wong states in his article here,
I think many users fall in the "Low injection rate" category, where they are only hitting optimum CO2 levels in the afternoon (when plants are using less of it to begin with!):
But they don't realize that you can fix that either by 1) increasing surface agitation (for increased off-gassing) as well as increasing injection rate:
OR by 2) Starting your CO2 injection way earlier than you think. For example:
Many hobbyists read "turn CO2 on 1 hour before lights" and end up with this:
Where they are only reaching optimum levels waaaay too late in their photoperiod, when they really should either start the CO2 way earlier, or start their photoperiod way later, like this:
To bring it all home (what I think):
- The Hanna CO2 test kit is a lot cheaper than a reliable pH pen/meter/computer, and requires no calibration fluids or calibration itself.
- It's been tested to be somewhat accurate when compared to a very expensive aquatic CO2 testing device.
- You can use something like the Hanna CO2 test kit to test for whether you're starting CO2 early enough, or whether you are even reaching equilibrium between off-gassing and injecting CO2.
- Like all titration, it can be prone to user error. If the goal is light pink, everyone will see light pink differently. Just do your best to be consistent with your readings!
- It costs $33+ shipping and will likely last the average user a few years (if the reagents don't go bad before then). Worth it!
44 Replies
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6322 views
Journal Farmer D. Singh's journal
Ive reorganized the order of my tanks so I can better keep track of them ie. Tank 2 moss tank is now tank 3. This helps in any confusion I had when tracking tanks they are in a sort of order now. Rather than taking time editing my old journal id rather create a new thread. Pics will be current (for the most part) as they are posted. I am not aquascaping. I am just farming.
42 Replies
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1932 views
Hello everybody im opening this topic since i cant get rid of the algae and im getting a little tired of it
I have a Juwel Rio 350 liter
3x onex daytime 2x colour 1x plant
At 100% 186 par at the bottom (tank is 66cm high)
I have a 1.5 hour build up and 1.5 hour build off 5 hours full light (90% atm because of the algae)
I moved the timing a little earlier yesterday since i tought it may be on to late (22:00) and not getting enough fully darkness for the plants to recover so it goes out now at 20:00
My co2 goes on 2.5 hour before lights go on and half an hour before lights go out
Ph drop of 1.4-1.5 (dropchecker 30mg/l limegreen/yellow)
Filtration: tetra ex 1500, oase biomaster 750 thermo (both with a spraybar creating a roll over), eheim skim 350 and a marine 6000 wavemaker that goes on every hour for 5 minutes (from 12:00-20:00) to distribute loose dirt so the filters will suck it up and keep the plants more clean
Waterchange 50% a week on monday with only RO. Apt sky to a gh of 8
For fertz i use Apt E dosing 6ml a day (keeping the no3 stable trough the whole week from the strategy of Dennis)
I have tried higher dosing aiming at 20mg/l no3 to now leaner dosing.
My plants are not super healthy. The fast growing stems have healthy tops but bad old growth. Even when replanting the healthy parts they turn out the same way.
They are also not as deep red as they should be with 186 par and look like they lack light in the bottom of the tank. My theory is that the 66cm depth is filtering a lot of the spectrum especially red.
The soil is now 3 months in the tank and is 4 months matured if you include priming the soil in a big bucket for bacteries (darkstart)
I had algae before the soil change and still have it now. I tought the soil would be the cause.
I dont know what else i should try or what could be the problem
Thanks in advance for your help and reading this big text
I have a Juwel Rio 350 liter
3x onex daytime 2x colour 1x plant
At 100% 186 par at the bottom (tank is 66cm high)
I have a 1.5 hour build up and 1.5 hour build off 5 hours full light (90% atm because of the algae)
I moved the timing a little earlier yesterday since i tought it may be on to late (22:00) and not getting enough fully darkness for the plants to recover so it goes out now at 20:00
My co2 goes on 2.5 hour before lights go on and half an hour before lights go out
Ph drop of 1.4-1.5 (dropchecker 30mg/l limegreen/yellow)
Filtration: tetra ex 1500, oase biomaster 750 thermo (both with a spraybar creating a roll over), eheim skim 350 and a marine 6000 wavemaker that goes on every hour for 5 minutes (from 12:00-20:00) to distribute loose dirt so the filters will suck it up and keep the plants more clean
Waterchange 50% a week on monday with only RO. Apt sky to a gh of 8
For fertz i use Apt E dosing 6ml a day (keeping the no3 stable trough the whole week from the strategy of Dennis)
I have tried higher dosing aiming at 20mg/l no3 to now leaner dosing.
My plants are not super healthy. The fast growing stems have healthy tops but bad old growth. Even when replanting the healthy parts they turn out the same way.
They are also not as deep red as they should be with 186 par and look like they lack light in the bottom of the tank. My theory is that the 66cm depth is filtering a lot of the spectrum especially red.
The soil is now 3 months in the tank and is 4 months matured if you include priming the soil in a big bucket for bacteries (darkstart)
I had algae before the soil change and still have it now. I tought the soil would be the cause.
I dont know what else i should try or what could be the problem
Thanks in advance for your help and reading this big text
22 Replies
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265 views
M
I Donated 2026
Journal 75P - Journey Into High Tech
Inspiration, Goals, & Considerations
I've had an interest in aquariums since a young age and had my own aquarium with fish like Angelfish and Mollies around middle school. Growing up, my dad had a bigger tank with Blood Parrots and Silver Dollars. Over 10 years ago, I had a low maintenance 55 gallon planted tank. I was pretty proud of it, but always envied the high tech tanks I saw on forums/social media and told myself when I broke that tank down that the next time I set up a tank, it would be like what I envied. At the end of 2024, I set up a small low tech 5 gallon planted tank to help scratch my aquarium itch, which really only reaccelerated my desire for setting up a high tech tank. And now, here we are!
The size of the tank was mostly dictated by the space. I originally planned on something around 30 gallons, but my LFS had the UNS 75P in stock and after measuring and discussing with my wife, we agreed it would work for the space. The tank is between the kitchen and living room, which is essentially a play area for my son, so lighting needs to be adjusted to make sure he's not blinded by the light when looking up at the tank.
Generally, I'd like to have a visually pleasing aquarium with lots of fish and plants that's peaceful to enjoy. I'd like to automate / reduce as much friction as possible and I realize there's still plenty I need to learn, so I'll need to have patience when things go wrong. I want to keep away from anything that's hard to get out of the tank once it's in (duckweed, moss, pest snails, etc). I felt like sharing prices below might give value to anyone in the future that's looking to start where I did with a high tech tank.
Specs (prices include sales tax)
Tank:
Lighting:
Filtration:
Co2:
Inflow & Outflow Pipes:
Substrate & Hardscape:
Fertilization:
Other Misc Equipment:
Chihiros CO2 Drop Checker
5 x Oase ShutOff Valve 16/22
Inkbird WiFi ITC-308 - $38
SwitchBot Leak Detectors - $15 each
"Stand"
Because the guts are located in a kitchen cabinet, I didn't want to screw directly into it and damage it. I was also concerned silicone would not be able to dry and outgas properly when sealing the edges. I opted to line the cabinet with contact paper. It's essentially a giant sticker, so I lined the sides, bottoms, and a second layer over the bottom edges/joints. I built a 3 panel "stand" inside of the cabinet so I could house everything and screw into the plywood without any concerns. I used 1 sheet of 3/4" Maple plywood and coated 1 side with a latex primer followed by a layer of latex white paint. This is mostly for water resistance and not necessarily water proof. I placed a silicone cabinet liner under the right side equipment. I made a shelf to place the EcoFlow on so if there's a catastrophic leak it's off the bottom.
One consideration I hadn't thought about was how "cramped" the cabinet would be since I placed the EcoFlow on a shelf with a "wall", which essentially made the work area much tighter.
Cable Management: Raceway and cable clips
Water
Express Water RO5DX - $160
Coming soon
I've had an interest in aquariums since a young age and had my own aquarium with fish like Angelfish and Mollies around middle school. Growing up, my dad had a bigger tank with Blood Parrots and Silver Dollars. Over 10 years ago, I had a low maintenance 55 gallon planted tank. I was pretty proud of it, but always envied the high tech tanks I saw on forums/social media and told myself when I broke that tank down that the next time I set up a tank, it would be like what I envied. At the end of 2024, I set up a small low tech 5 gallon planted tank to help scratch my aquarium itch, which really only reaccelerated my desire for setting up a high tech tank. And now, here we are!
The size of the tank was mostly dictated by the space. I originally planned on something around 30 gallons, but my LFS had the UNS 75P in stock and after measuring and discussing with my wife, we agreed it would work for the space. The tank is between the kitchen and living room, which is essentially a play area for my son, so lighting needs to be adjusted to make sure he's not blinded by the light when looking up at the tank.
Generally, I'd like to have a visually pleasing aquarium with lots of fish and plants that's peaceful to enjoy. I'd like to automate / reduce as much friction as possible and I realize there's still plenty I need to learn, so I'll need to have patience when things go wrong. I want to keep away from anything that's hard to get out of the tank once it's in (duckweed, moss, pest snails, etc). I felt like sharing prices below might give value to anyone in the future that's looking to start where I did with a high tech tank.
Specs (prices include sales tax)
Tank:
UNS 75P (8mm Glass - 29.52" x 17.71" x 17.71") - $519
UNS Atmos Backlight - $274
Lid - Working on getting a custom lid made
Lighting:
Chihiros WRGB II Pro 60 - $263
Chihiros WRGB II Pro Shades- $40
3D Printed Side Shades - Still need to do this
Chihiros Hanging Rope Kit- $37
Chihiros LED Lights Hanging Stand Kit - $64
Chihiros WRGB II Pro Shades- $40
3D Printed Side Shades - Still need to do this
Chihiros Hanging Rope Kit- $37
The mounting screws provided protruded beyond the bracket and would not fit with the backlight. I ended up getting washers and placing them outside the bracket to limit the screw depth.
Really disliked the fact that the stand was branded with Chihiros and visible when looking into the aquarium.
UNS Light Hanging Bar - $105
Filtration:
Oase BioMaster 2 Thermo 850 - $461
Oase tubing - Included with filter
Co2:
Misc. 10lb Cylinder - $118 (includes CO2)
CO2 Art PRO-SE Regulator - $105
Aqua Rocks Colorado Small Yugang Reactor 19mm w/ 90 degree elbows - $150
Inflow & Outflow Pipes:
Aqua Rocks Colorado Stainless Steel Lily Pipes 17mm - $54
Aqua Rocks Colorado Lily Pipe Clipper - $11
Substrate & Hardscape:
UNS Controsoil - Black, 'normal' used as a base and ‘fine’ on top - ~$129
CaribSea Super Naturals- Jungle River Sand (foreground sand) - $42 (only used a small mount of the bag - will user remainder in upcoming tank)
UNS Controsand Santa Fe (used as accent around dragon stone) - $57 (only used a small mount of the bag - will user remainder in upcoming tank)
UNS Controsand Sequoia (used as accent around dragon stone) - $52 (only used a small mount of the bag - will user remainder in upcoming tank)
I was surprised how dirty these rocks were and how much rinsing was required. For the price point, I felt like they should have come pre-washed.
Driftwood & Dragon Stone from Aquarium Co-Op - $111
Fertilization:
Burr Aqua Micros and Macros
Chihiros Magnetic Stirrers - $100
Battery Backup & PowerEcoFlow DELTA 3 Max (2kwh) - $680
Unfortunately prolonged power outages are not uncommon for us. We've been without power for multiple consecutive days, 7 days being the longest. This battery backup gives me some peace of mind knowing the tank can run for some time uninterrupted giving me the flexibility to get the generator out and running at a later time, refill with gas, etc. I believe run time will be around 12 hours.
Other Misc Equipment:
Chihiros CO2 Drop Checker
5 x Oase ShutOff Valve 16/22
Inkbird WiFi ITC-308 - $38
SwitchBot Leak Detectors - $15 each
"Stand"
Because the guts are located in a kitchen cabinet, I didn't want to screw directly into it and damage it. I was also concerned silicone would not be able to dry and outgas properly when sealing the edges. I opted to line the cabinet with contact paper. It's essentially a giant sticker, so I lined the sides, bottoms, and a second layer over the bottom edges/joints. I built a 3 panel "stand" inside of the cabinet so I could house everything and screw into the plywood without any concerns. I used 1 sheet of 3/4" Maple plywood and coated 1 side with a latex primer followed by a layer of latex white paint. This is mostly for water resistance and not necessarily water proof. I placed a silicone cabinet liner under the right side equipment. I made a shelf to place the EcoFlow on so if there's a catastrophic leak it's off the bottom.
One consideration I hadn't thought about was how "cramped" the cabinet would be since I placed the EcoFlow on a shelf with a "wall", which essentially made the work area much tighter.
Cable Management: Raceway and cable clips
Water
Express Water RO5DX - $160
I saw this recommended by @Naturescapes_Rocco, and feel like the value is pretty hard to beat. I waited until it was on sale to purchase, but even at the $190 list price, it's great. Water source is an artesian spring (well). From the tap, TDS measures 56. In my 5g, I've used water straight from the tap, but opted for RO so I can keep things consistent with this setup. TDS after initial filter flushing was 0 (yeah, 0!).
55 Gallon Brute Trash Can, 44 Gallon Brute Trash Can, 32 Gallon Greenmade Trash Can, and 2x dollys.I need to improve this setup because it's a PITA. RO goes into the 55g, then I need to transfer it to the 44g to fill the tank. The 32g was originally what I purchased because that was the biggest Costco had, but it didn't hold enough water to fill the tank, so I had to rethink my plans. Seeing the 55g in person, I wasn't confident I could fit 2 side by side in the space I set up the RO in (which I couldn't). This setup is very clunky and requires a lot of water moving to make it to the tank. I've been using the 32g for waste water so I could water plants with it, but I might get worn down quickly and send it down the drain.
Plants (all UNS TC)- Homalomena Sp Sekadau South (babysitter)
- Hydrocotyle Tripartita (potentially babysitter)
- Alternanthera Reineckii Rosanervig (initially planned as babysitter, but may keep some in long term)
- Hemianthus Callitrichoides 'Cuba'
- Rotala Rotundifolia Blood Red
- Anubias Nana Petite
- Micranthemum 'Monte Carlo'
- Alternanthera Reineckii 'Mini'
- Echinodorus Rose
Coming soon
- 25x Red Neon Blue Eye Rainbow
- 7x C005 Corydoras pantanalensis
- 3x C123 Yellow Cory 'Rio Nanay'
- Aphyosemion bivittatum 'Funge' Pair
- 5x Stiphodon rutilaureus Goby
- 1x True Siamese Algae Eaters
- 1x Bamboo Shrimp
- 8x Amano Shrimp
70 Replies
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4270 views