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mn_aquascape
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
Hello everyone. Back in the game after a lengthy hiatus, and a few failed attempts to get after it again. Kids are older and super into which makes all this super fun again!

I run a 120cm rimless with 2 x Chihiros RGB II pendants. I had the dreaded dim red light all night problem and recently replaced the blue tooth controller and PCB boards on both units to v.10. Chihiros should do better, but thats a totally different post. Tank has been up and running for maybe 2 months now

Substrate: BDBS
Water: RO remineralized with APT Sky to GH 7ish and 0 KH. 90% change weekly.
Fish: booming colony of Sanke Swordtails, some ottos, and a handful of bloody mary shrimps.
Ferts: dry salts to full EI levels using good old CSMB
Filtration: one of those stainless canisters with a DC pump on top. Got it from GLA when they were in that game.
CO2: GLA regulator run through a NilocG reactor. On 2 hours before lights on, off 1 hour before lights out. (Light cycle 7 hours)
Plants: mix of Hygros, Ludwigias and a few other things. I like like to grow basic plants, really well, and dont have the patience for delicate things. I get a little lazy from time to time.

Question: I've been fighting some frustrating stunted and twisted tips on things like Ludwigia inclinata, some really frustrating melting on Heteranthera zosterfolia, some sad drooping leaves on Ludwigia glandulosa, and a touch of greenish water and maybe a touch of GSA/GDA. I'm not an expert, but I'm confidently ruling out nutrient problems given I'm on full EI. Not a micro toxicity, since that horse has been beaten to absolute death and I'm 90% water change weekly.

Im stating to wonder if CO2 isnt right. I guess I don't do the whole pH measurement thing... again, just a little lazy, and I think my plants are telling me what I need to know. I feel like ive maxed out everything I can with CO2, so my brain is starting to think lights are just too much.

This week I dialed the lights back to 70% after my water change on Sunday. I think I'm starting to see some small improvements in the stunted and twisted tips.

Could it be my lights were just too much, driving photosynthesis too fast and depleting CO2 levels during the day resulting in fluctuations the plants didn't appreciate? By turning the lights down to 70% did I take my foot off the accelerator allowing photosynthesis to be better balanced throughout the day with the CO2 being added to the system? I also reduced plant mass a fair amount this past week, which might have also reduced CO2 demand. Is my rationale wrong on this? Is it possible that these stupid high output lights, like Chihiros, when run at 100% are just too much for a CO2 reactor to keep up with in a greedy stem plant tank?

Thanks fellow planted tank nerds. Its good to be back in the game. I'll post some updates on our liverbearer low tech planted tank rack sometime soon too.

Haphazard photo as I walked by the tank tonight, attached for post tax, and yes.... we all see the slightly green/cloudy water.

--Steve
9 Replies · 1214 views
P
Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
I have read an awful lot of warnings and conjectures by people. And “I used bdbs and a shrimp died so I got rid of it…”…

My personal experience with the product has been uneventful.

I have put rare earth magnets through a quart sample with no hint of any attraction and then washed it with no hint of oil slick or dustiness and then added the rest of the bag to a new aquarium with no treatment, no ill effect…

I have probably employed 7 bags by now with no hint of a problem. Dozens of corys sifting through the stuff as well as khuli loaches and yoyo loaches…. No hint of problems with them…

Other than it self leveling itself and being totally incapable of holding a slopeI love the stuff. The black always looks great. It costs about 1/4 aquarium specific substrates. I really haventexperienced anything negative about it…

I know it is popular here…. Has anybody here had bad experiences with it?
11 Replies · 168 views
Tim Harrison
Last reply · posted in Journals
My new scape. It’s been a while. I’ve been busy finishing my novel. It’s published now so back to scaping.

It’s a classic triangular scape and I’m calling it Quantum Entanglement. It’s a working title, so I might change that. Sorry mods.

The real star is the light. Off Amazon for around $130. Fully controllable with a remote. Great value. https://amzn.eu/d/0eRX5eCo

I want to plant it with mainly buces and small anubias spp. on the rocks and wood and MC carpet, with some crypt nevellii or C. X Willisii, and stauro in the shady parts and maybe a ludwigia mini super red highlight behind the last rock on the left.
5 Replies · 76 views
JayP
Supporting I Donated 2026 Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
I hadn't seen it mentioned by others that attended Aquashella, but if you hadn't already heard about it or seen it in Aquashella videos, ADA has come out with Amazonia Pro. It's not a replacement for Version 2, but an addition. It is essentially Version 2 on steroids with higher nutrients and of course the negative side effect of potentially higher initial ammonia leaching and, if your not prepared and skilled, more chance of algae. That's even from the mouth of Homma-san himself. The scaping competitors were using it in the competition and AFA was selling 9l bags at the show. They said it would be available on the website within the next couple weeks.
28 Replies · 811 views
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HardeeParty
Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Journals
Time to start a new thread.

I’ll fill in some details later, but I’m working on the hardscape now. Any and all criticism is appreciated. The vision is nothing more, and nothing less, than something appealing to the eye.

90cm x 30cm x 30cm Lifegard Aquatics ultra clear bookshelf tank. Buce and anubias on the hardscape, stems towards the back and center, mid to front carpet with some changes in shade and texture down to a flat grade on the right side of the tank.

Lily pipe inlet and skimmer will be in the back left corner with the outflow in the front left to hopefully achieve circular flow. I’ll be running an in-line diffuser. Light will be the P600 Pro that I regrettably did not upside to 900. Oh well. I’ll mount it high and hopefully it’ll have enough spread.

I have some dragon stone and red lava rock rubble I’ll use at the base to blend into the substrate, as well as some stratum I may or may not cap with.

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297 Replies · 33321 views
NC AL
Last reply · posted in Equipment Discussions
In my never ending quest to piddle around, I have been looking at setting up a nano eco tank/bowl with minimum maintenance. The main issue I have is controlling the temp. The temps in my house fluctuate between 68 - 71 degree regularly and can drop to lower 60s a few weeks in the fall and spring when we do not have the heater on.

Has anyone thought about or had success using an animal heating pad under the bowl/tank? While most are designed for reptiles and regulate between 100-120F, there are some for more mixed use that can be controlled from 68F and up. I don't think this would be too hard to set up. Could be to keep the inside of the tank clear of equipment. Radiant floor heating for your shrimp/fish.

Heating Pad
5 Replies · 65 views
GreggZ
Staff member Supporting Founding Member Expert in Residence MOTM Winner Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Journals
As some people may know I had a long running journal on another forum. Glad to see Art get this new site started. A fresh beginning and loads of possibilities ahead. I'll be updating with thoughts here but for today just wanted to share my latest tank pics.


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353 Replies · 64295 views
Naturescapes_Rocco
Supporting I Donated 2026 Rockstar Article Contributor
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
Like my no-tech bowl scaping thread where I have a list of inspiring bowl scapers, I thought it would be awesome to do the same with a Dutch-inspired / True Dutch thread! I have a ton, but I'll post them over time. If anyone else finds good examples of dutch tanks, post them here, too!



First up:



I translated the transcript and got as much info as I could. Here's the things I find interesting:

50% WC weekly

He front-load doses the incoming fresh water volume to:
  • NO3: ~30 ppm
  • PO4: ~4.2 ppm
  • K: ~34 ppm
  • Mg: ~3.4 ppm
Meaning, his accumulation numbers can never exceed these values (that's the benefit of viewing his front load in terms of incoming ppm values vs total water volume).

If you were to look at it through full-volume dosing lens, it's:
  • NO3: ~15 ppm
  • PO4: ~2.1 ppm
  • K: ~17 ppm
  • Mg: ~1.7 ppm
GH booster is used but not described, so IDK how much Ca/Mg he uses.

Micros are dosed 3x per week, but nothing specific provided. Probably ~0.3-0.5ppm/week? He does say the iron is all gone/undetectable by the evening.

Beautiful tank! I love the balance of colors, textures, and plant groupings. That tiger lily is amazing. Very little algae, too!
13 Replies · 813 views
Art
Art
Staff member I Donated 2026 Founding Member
· posted in Meet & Greet Forum
Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @tṛtīyāya!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
0 Replies · 13 views
S
Last reply · posted in Fertilizing and Aquarium Chemistry
I understand that the process of aquasoil neutralizing kh is basically it turning it into co2 through chemical reactions.

However, in practice it just seems to raise the ph if the soil if the ph buffering capacity is exhausted?
If I pre-acidify RO water with HCL the aquasoil seems to raise the ph back up to around where it normally is after a day or 2.
1 Replies · 92 views
Art
Art
Staff member I Donated 2026 Founding Member
· posted in Meet & Greet Forum
Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @Forest Alex!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
0 Replies · 16 views
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