Welcome to ScapeCrunch
We are ScapeCrunch, the place where planted aquarium hobbyists come to build relationships and support each other. When you're tired of doom scrolling, you've found your home here.
Social Feed
Staff member
I Donated 2026
Founding Member
I am happy to post the first Tin Foil Hat (meaning uncommon and unsubstantiated theory) thread. Dosing a carbon source to an aquarium is a long-standing technique used in the reefing hobby to lower NO3 and PO4 through bacterial means. Vodka is a pure carbon source in addition to being a pretty good drink and is often used. Essentially, the theory is that bacterial populations in our aquariums are limited by the easy availability of organic carbon (not the type you are bubbling into it). By increasing the availability of organic carbon, you increase the bacterial population in your aquarium.
Bacteria are living organisms like our plants (and you and me). They respire and need a food source to grow. When they multiply and grow, they take up O2 by respiring and they take up NO3 (and to a lesser extent, PO4). This essentially competes with our fish and plants. We don't want that. Or, do we???
I did a podcast on this back in 2015 except I talked about dosing vinegar in your aquarium back then. It's the same thing as vodka but cheaper and not as much fun to drink. I'm proud to say our friend @Marcel G referenced my podcast in one of his posts.
What most people don't know (because I haven't told anyone) is that my thinking on this has evolved since 2015. I now follow a very focused method to my tin foil madness but please hear me out. Here's the story.
Ryan over on BRS TV was just starting to explore the hidden benefits of the aquarium microbiome in an effort to understand why new reef aquariums go through an ugly period when started. He was testing a dark start to avoid algae and allow bacteria to grow instead. People thought it was to cycle the tank but that wasn't the only point. The point was to give the microbiome time to grow and take up space. The theory was that if you allow bacterial to colonize the reef tank's rock surface, then it isn't as easy for algae to grow on it.
This got me thinking and so I put it to the test in a planted aquarium.
The theory was: Can I get bacteria to grow quickly in the initial phase of a planted tank so that algae would not be able to capitalize on the initial instability?
I've done three planted tanks since that time and in each one, I've dosed vodka daily for the first two months. I'm actually doing it now with my re-scaped tank.
The outcomes (and by no means scientific evidence): I've avoided the nasty startup algae that many people get. With the current tank, I'm even avoiding the usual fungus you get when you use spider wood in the beginning. Frankly, diatoms and dinos have also not been a problem.
All of this is observational and could be explained to be as a result of other reasons. However, after three times, hmmm... maybe there is something there. I do see my SAE's constantly nibbling on surfaces that I assume are covered with biofilm.
My completely unscientific guess is that the carbon dosing is causing bacteria to grow quicker than algae can. The colonize all available surfaces. By taking this space, algae has a tough time fixing itself to things, including plants. Bacteria can and will colonize the surface of plants and there are studies looking at the interaction of bacteria and leaf surface. I assume that the bacterial has also out-competed (is that a word?) the usual fungus I get on spider wood when submerged for the first time.
Now, some cautionary words:
- The first time I did this I dosed too much and got a massive cyanobacteria outbreak
- I have a well oxygenated tank, as bacteria will take oxygen away from the rest of the inhabitants
- I dose a small amount (.8 ml per day per 25 gallons)
- I stop dosing as soon as I feel the plants are growing well and can outcompete algae
20 Replies
·
3701 views
Supporting
I Donated 2026
Rockstar
Amazon prime day is less than 2 weeks away so I thought I'd start a thread in advance to discuss any bargains we might see.
The reason this came to mind now was that I just happen to be browsing for other things when I noticed this small curved edge low iron tank pop up. I would probably buy one of these if it drops even lower for prime day.
10 Gallon Ultra Clear Glass Rimless Curved Edge Aquarium
The reason this came to mind now was that I just happen to be browsing for other things when I noticed this small curved edge low iron tank pop up. I would probably buy one of these if it drops even lower for prime day.
10 Gallon Ultra Clear Glass Rimless Curved Edge Aquarium
46 Replies
·
968 views
Both tanks contain a lot of bucephalandra stems I have recently melted by feeding my caridina tanks with mulberry leaves. I have no idea what the heck happened but all buces melted in those tanks heavily over 3 days with every other plant + shrimp being fine. Don't wanna risk the plants dying so I'm throwing them back into high tech for a few months to recover.
Set Up:
Both tanks uses heavy co2 misting
Horticulture LED lights (dimmed, so probably 25-30 watts?)
Will steadily increase light weekly if I see no issues, max is 40 watts.
Dual sponge filters. (Air bubbles help prevent co2 gassing, also seems to really help stabilize tank, so less algae)
1 Internal filter with an atomizer for misting.
Regime:
All tanks get a 30-50% water change, twice per week.
Micros dosed daily (unless I forget, which happens fairly often.)
Macros Front Loaded and only in new incoming water.
6 Gallon bucket water change:
~350tds (Using seachem equilibrium remineralizer)
~22ppm KNO3, using KNO3 + KH2PO4
~40-50 ppm Potassium due to remineralizer
~4-5GH
Buce Lottery Colors
Lots of buces, various names, collected over the years. A lot of them were ultra rare and I cannot buy them anymore. Most of the ultra rare I probably accidentally killed from trying to grow them in a "no filter, no co2" style tank. Either way, not much color in low tech, will see what lottery colors we pull once they get going with better colors in higher lights + co2.
Both tanks are planted tightly front to back with bucephalandra. Kinda hard to see it all with moss blocking the way, but my view will be your view.
Random Mosses
Some mosses I've collected as well, honestly I grow a lot of them free floating so they kinda look the same. We will find out how they look after I attach them to something.
15 Gallon, very aged sand + pebble tank.
20 Gallon long, aged aquasoil I pulled from an existing caridina tank.
Wanted to take some macro shots, but does anyone know how to take an angle show on the glass without distortion? I have a DSLR long tube lens that works under water but color rendition is really bad.
Why so much moss?
Mostly to help stabilize the tank and to reduce light bleed. Less surface for algae to grow.
Set Up:
Both tanks uses heavy co2 misting
Horticulture LED lights (dimmed, so probably 25-30 watts?)
Will steadily increase light weekly if I see no issues, max is 40 watts.
Dual sponge filters. (Air bubbles help prevent co2 gassing, also seems to really help stabilize tank, so less algae)
1 Internal filter with an atomizer for misting.
Regime:
All tanks get a 30-50% water change, twice per week.
Micros dosed daily (unless I forget, which happens fairly often.)
Macros Front Loaded and only in new incoming water.
6 Gallon bucket water change:
~350tds (Using seachem equilibrium remineralizer)
~22ppm KNO3, using KNO3 + KH2PO4
~40-50 ppm Potassium due to remineralizer
~4-5GH
Buce Lottery Colors
Lots of buces, various names, collected over the years. A lot of them were ultra rare and I cannot buy them anymore. Most of the ultra rare I probably accidentally killed from trying to grow them in a "no filter, no co2" style tank. Either way, not much color in low tech, will see what lottery colors we pull once they get going with better colors in higher lights + co2.
Both tanks are planted tightly front to back with bucephalandra. Kinda hard to see it all with moss blocking the way, but my view will be your view.
Random Mosses
Some mosses I've collected as well, honestly I grow a lot of them free floating so they kinda look the same. We will find out how they look after I attach them to something.
15 Gallon, very aged sand + pebble tank.
20 Gallon long, aged aquasoil I pulled from an existing caridina tank.
Wanted to take some macro shots, but does anyone know how to take an angle show on the glass without distortion? I have a DSLR long tube lens that works under water but color rendition is really bad.
Why so much moss?
Mostly to help stabilize the tank and to reduce light bleed. Less surface for algae to grow.
14 Replies
·
977 views
Staff member
I Donated 2026
Founding Member
Hi everyone!
I thought we would have more activity in this forum. I know back in the day, everyone was using shrimp to control algae especially the Yamatos.
Is that not a thing anymore?
Any shrimp-heads still out there? If so, what you got?
I thought we would have more activity in this forum. I know back in the day, everyone was using shrimp to control algae especially the Yamatos.
Is that not a thing anymore?
Any shrimp-heads still out there? If so, what you got?
30 Replies
·
4732 views
T
Supporting
I Donated 2026
I just planted this aquarium 2 weeks ago. I have a dozen Amano shrimp for algae control, no other fish or shrimp. This will be a neocaridina shrimp tank once its seasons. I got into the office early today, before the aquarium lights went on and I saw 3 of these guys swimming in the water column. Once the lights came on, they disappeared quickly. I was concerned that this flatworm of whatever type might be predatory toward shrimp the way leaches and planaria can be. I figure I need to medicate the tank. My LFS recommended Flatworm eXit by salifert. I have some. I wanted to see if anyone might help me identify it. Honestly, once my plants had filled in and I was done planting, I was going to nuke the tank with fenbendazole to make sure there were no hydra, planaria, snails, etc. before I introduced neocaridina shrimp. Thoughts, suggestions, treatments, etc.?
4 Replies
·
55 views
Supporting
I Donated 2026
Rockstar
There are several threads discussing the new Aquael Hypermax 4500BT. I'm sure many would like some reports on it's performance over time. We have a thread discussing nano canister filters. We're all waiting for one of @Naturescapes_Rocco in depth write-ups discussing his filtration set-up. @Pepere and @*Ci* have unique set-ups as well, @Kwyet has used a matten filter, and we have several other members running sumps. That doesn't even include all those running sponge and HOB filters.
The idea is that we can consolidate a lot of filter information in one place making it easier to find rather than searching through so many threads. Maybe this won't work but I thought it was worth giving it a try. Perhaps it may be better listed as an article at some point.
I'm going to get things started by discussing factors I feel are most important to me when choosing a filter.
1) Filtration Performance: This goes without saying. The filter’s primary job is to keep our water clean and free of anything that harms the inhabitants. Of course, there are multiple factors that play into this. Some say flow is most critical, while others claim media volume is most important. Are there other factors? I still have limited experience, but my view, having done considerable reading, is that flow tends to be a bit overblown. You’ll see recommendations of anywhere from 4 to 10 times turnover rate with most leaning toward the higher end of that. I don’t think turnover rate is really the detail to be concerned about, at least with heavily planted tanks like are the norm here. I think the focus should be simply on ensuring flow achieves the goal of effectively moving water through the system to remove toxins/waste, delivering nutrients, and aiding gas (oxygen/CO2) transfer. If a turnover rate of 3 or 4 does that without dead spots in the tank, you should be good. After all, most of us here are plant focused and therefore, the fish we generally have are smaller community species that typically don’t care for high flow (there are, of course, exceptions).
I think there’s a simpler answer regarding media volume; more is better. Obviously, there must be a balance between internal volume and overall size of the filter. Real estate in and around our aquarium stands is precious. Filters like the Fluval FX6 and the newest Aquael Hypermax are huge. If you’re going for one of those, you’re likely putting it on a large tank with plenty of space underneath but again, it’s a matter of finding the right balance that provides the performance you need in a manageable size.
2) Reliability/Durability: This is where solid reviews come in handy and why getting feedback from users here is invaluable. Filtration performance becomes moot if the filter isn’t running, or worse yet, just flooded your house. Being able to easily source spare parts is also valuable, which is why sticking to the top well-known brands is often a safe route. It’s also why many aquarists place canister filters in protective containers, something else to consider when taking into account, size of filter. (this is something I should really do as I’ve had to clean up a few significant spills after filter maintenance and not getting the top secured in place properly
)
3) Tie – Maintenance/Noise Level: These two factors are equally important to me. If the filter is a pain to maintain, I’m going to put it off, and that’s bad. It affects the performance. But equally important to me is how noisy it is. I tend to be sensitive to annoying little sounds regardless of where I am; at home, in the car, at work, you name it. If the aquarium is in a part of the house I spend a lot of time in, well then, it’s even more important.
I don’t know if Oase was first to do it, but the idea of the prefilter was, I think, a game changer for many. I imagine it was derived from people installing foam filters on the intake pipes. Having an easily removable section with foam filters that catch a lot of large particles before entering the primary filter chamber is a great idea, resulting in expanded intervals between main filter head removals for cleaning.
Another aspect of maintenance is ease of priming. This could also be an aspect of performance but I don’t think it is quite as important. I’m not sure there is a canister filter that is truly or consistently easy to prime. Some may start out that way, but over time, become less and less so. This is an area I’d really like to see product designers put more serious thought. My experience so far is with Oase and the Fluval 07 series. Hated the Fuval priming and I’m just so-so with the Oase. Let me know your experience with priming other brands.
As for noise, I don’t mind the slight hum of an impeller as long as it’s steady and consistent, much the same way some people, including myself when I was younger, like the smooth steady sound of a fan at night to help them sleep. It’s when the sound becomes inconsistent, I’m bothered. I also don’t care for the sound of splashing/trickling water while I’m focused on other things. Only when I’m camping near the banks of a creek or other body of water is this OK
. This is one of the main reasons I’m not a fan of HOB filters. I’m also tweaking my CO2 reactor designs to minimize the bubble sounds of CO2 entering the reactor.
4) Cost: Let’s be clear, the cost doesn’t stop when you pay the retail price for the filter. There’s the cost of media and spare parts plus the cost of electricity. What’s the rated wattage of the filter. I see the Aquael filters claim to consume lower power and are therefore cheaper to run. What about special filter cartridges or foam. Is it easy to cut foam filters from inexpensive bulk material? How often are gasket replacements necessary, or are there common issues with parts failing over time. Of two Fluval 07 filters I’ve used, both needed replacement impeller shafts. Oase Biomaster filters seem to have an issue with the input/output head often needing replaced.
I admit cost isn’t a critical factor for me, but I know it is for many others, so this is another instance where finding the right balance is key, in this case, the balance between price and performance.
Share your thoughts. Do these factors seem to align with yours or do you think I’m way off base. Tell us what types and brands of filters you prefer and why.
The idea is that we can consolidate a lot of filter information in one place making it easier to find rather than searching through so many threads. Maybe this won't work but I thought it was worth giving it a try. Perhaps it may be better listed as an article at some point.
I'm going to get things started by discussing factors I feel are most important to me when choosing a filter.
1) Filtration Performance: This goes without saying. The filter’s primary job is to keep our water clean and free of anything that harms the inhabitants. Of course, there are multiple factors that play into this. Some say flow is most critical, while others claim media volume is most important. Are there other factors? I still have limited experience, but my view, having done considerable reading, is that flow tends to be a bit overblown. You’ll see recommendations of anywhere from 4 to 10 times turnover rate with most leaning toward the higher end of that. I don’t think turnover rate is really the detail to be concerned about, at least with heavily planted tanks like are the norm here. I think the focus should be simply on ensuring flow achieves the goal of effectively moving water through the system to remove toxins/waste, delivering nutrients, and aiding gas (oxygen/CO2) transfer. If a turnover rate of 3 or 4 does that without dead spots in the tank, you should be good. After all, most of us here are plant focused and therefore, the fish we generally have are smaller community species that typically don’t care for high flow (there are, of course, exceptions).
I think there’s a simpler answer regarding media volume; more is better. Obviously, there must be a balance between internal volume and overall size of the filter. Real estate in and around our aquarium stands is precious. Filters like the Fluval FX6 and the newest Aquael Hypermax are huge. If you’re going for one of those, you’re likely putting it on a large tank with plenty of space underneath but again, it’s a matter of finding the right balance that provides the performance you need in a manageable size.
2) Reliability/Durability: This is where solid reviews come in handy and why getting feedback from users here is invaluable. Filtration performance becomes moot if the filter isn’t running, or worse yet, just flooded your house. Being able to easily source spare parts is also valuable, which is why sticking to the top well-known brands is often a safe route. It’s also why many aquarists place canister filters in protective containers, something else to consider when taking into account, size of filter. (this is something I should really do as I’ve had to clean up a few significant spills after filter maintenance and not getting the top secured in place properly
)3) Tie – Maintenance/Noise Level: These two factors are equally important to me. If the filter is a pain to maintain, I’m going to put it off, and that’s bad. It affects the performance. But equally important to me is how noisy it is. I tend to be sensitive to annoying little sounds regardless of where I am; at home, in the car, at work, you name it. If the aquarium is in a part of the house I spend a lot of time in, well then, it’s even more important.
I don’t know if Oase was first to do it, but the idea of the prefilter was, I think, a game changer for many. I imagine it was derived from people installing foam filters on the intake pipes. Having an easily removable section with foam filters that catch a lot of large particles before entering the primary filter chamber is a great idea, resulting in expanded intervals between main filter head removals for cleaning.
Another aspect of maintenance is ease of priming. This could also be an aspect of performance but I don’t think it is quite as important. I’m not sure there is a canister filter that is truly or consistently easy to prime. Some may start out that way, but over time, become less and less so. This is an area I’d really like to see product designers put more serious thought. My experience so far is with Oase and the Fluval 07 series. Hated the Fuval priming and I’m just so-so with the Oase. Let me know your experience with priming other brands.
As for noise, I don’t mind the slight hum of an impeller as long as it’s steady and consistent, much the same way some people, including myself when I was younger, like the smooth steady sound of a fan at night to help them sleep. It’s when the sound becomes inconsistent, I’m bothered. I also don’t care for the sound of splashing/trickling water while I’m focused on other things. Only when I’m camping near the banks of a creek or other body of water is this OK
. This is one of the main reasons I’m not a fan of HOB filters. I’m also tweaking my CO2 reactor designs to minimize the bubble sounds of CO2 entering the reactor.4) Cost: Let’s be clear, the cost doesn’t stop when you pay the retail price for the filter. There’s the cost of media and spare parts plus the cost of electricity. What’s the rated wattage of the filter. I see the Aquael filters claim to consume lower power and are therefore cheaper to run. What about special filter cartridges or foam. Is it easy to cut foam filters from inexpensive bulk material? How often are gasket replacements necessary, or are there common issues with parts failing over time. Of two Fluval 07 filters I’ve used, both needed replacement impeller shafts. Oase Biomaster filters seem to have an issue with the input/output head often needing replaced.
I admit cost isn’t a critical factor for me, but I know it is for many others, so this is another instance where finding the right balance is key, in this case, the balance between price and performance.
Share your thoughts. Do these factors seem to align with yours or do you think I’m way off base. Tell us what types and brands of filters you prefer and why.
89 Replies
·
5250 views
Staff member
I Donated 2026
Founding Member
This is the future home for the announcements when someone obtains an achievement badge. Let the games begin!
1988 Replies
·
49246 views
Staff member
I Donated 2026
Founding Member
The January Photo of the Month contest is now live. Please submit your photo as a post to this thread.
The first theme is: Best Red Plant Solo photo.An example:
Winner: One winner will get POTM Winner user banner under their name and, of course, bragging rights with lifelong admiration.
Rules:
- Make a post in this thread and attach your contest submission photo!
- Only 1 entry per member please - bring your best photo!
- Submission period will be for three weeks and then close to new entries. It will close and voting begins on January 23rd.
- Winner will be chosen last day of the month based on vote count total
- Each member has one vote for each entry based on a 10 point scale. Every photo gets a vote from 1 -10 with 10 being the best.
- The photo should be no larger than 800px x 800px and image editing should be kept to a minimum (i.e., no super saturations, etc.)
- Staff Members reserve the right to disqualify highly doctored images
- The photo should be in jpg or png format and no larger than 1 megabyte
- *** Minimum 5 members must participate for the prize to count ***
Looking forward to seeing your best red plant photos! Good luck!
Best,
Art
24 Replies
·
4683 views
I have a 125 Gallon tank that I am Co2 injecting for the first time. I do not like the Co2 reactor I have now so I am going to build a Yugang Rector but do not want to mess up my calculations when building. How does my tops effect the Yugang calculations, plus how safe is it to have tops on the tank as far as gas exchange and oxygenation is concerned. I have a photo showing the top of the tank.
Thanks
Thanks
5 Replies
·
68 views
This thread is for the general discussion of the classified ad Anubias Barteri Nana - Aquarium Plant - Big Sale - $35 shipped. Please add to the discussion here.
4 Replies
·
65 views
Staff member
I Donated 2026
Founding Member
Hello Welcome, WhoIsRoscoe
Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @WhoIsRoscoe!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
0 Replies
·
15 views