Journal Rocco's No-Tech Bowl Scaping Thread - with APT Feast!

[Naturescapes_Rocco]

The bowl is growing very quickly!

I added 12 S-Grade CRS Caridina shrimp. They're the perfect inhabitants for a bowl like this...

Water is unfortunately murky, I think there's a lot of tannins being released from the large driftwood and it's not gonna stop for a while.

First planted:



29 days later:

Limnophila heterophylla is an awesome plant for low tech. Grows SUPER fast, stays bushy with trimming!


Helanthium tenellum looking pristine. Starting to send runners everywhere, no algae in sight. Stays lower than dwarf sag, I think it's a better carpeting plant than dwarf sag in general.



Ludwigia super red is growing fast but doesn't look amazing. Still, it adds color and texture.


Before water change and trim...



After water change and trim.

Info:

• Approx 6gal actual volume.
• Remove 3 gallons every week, refill with pure RO water.
• When removing water, use a cup to remove all surface scum. Remove to known marked "3-gallon" line.
• Remineralize incoming 3 gallons to 30ppm Ca, ~8ppm Mg.
• Dose incoming 3 gallons with APT 3 with a syringe, 1mL/gal. So, 3mL.
• Feed the inhabitants once or twice a week.

Easy as can be!

 

[snowballs99]

Did the RCS do well in this set up and breed much?
I've got a 10 gallon tank with PRL I'd like to go filter less but didn't wanna risk killing the shrimp. It's filled with moss so I doubt ammonia spikes would be an issue.

 

[Naturescapes_Rocco]

We'll see! They're all only about 12 days into the bowl. No deaths, and they all look happy and healthy. Even found a molt already. I ordered more because I like them so much!

They're perfect for a bowl because they're even smaller than cherry shrimp, and the bowl is like a magnifying glass.

 

[Mr.Shenanagins]

Did you try boiling that wood for an extended period? That helps leach it out faster too.

 

[Naturescapes_Rocco]

I did, for like 2 hours, but it's "iron wood" which has sooooo much tannin release.

It's ok, 50% WC twice a week for the next month will keep it clearer. I'm not too worried about it.

 

[Naturescapes_Rocco]

Water is starting to clear up!

I transferred 9 of my CPD's to the bowl. There's currently ~24 Crystal Red Shrimp, 9 CPD's, and about 20 various Ramshorn snails now.





A lil video:



All of the plants are algae free and doing really really well. H tennellum is spreading fast, AR mini is now getting bushy. Pearlweed and limnophila aromatica are growing super fast, as is the Ludwigia super red. Penthorum sedoides is strong and algae free. Crypt spiralis in the back isn't visible but is looking great.

Bowl info is the same. Front loading APT Complete (APT 3) at a rate of 1mL/1gal seems to be working great so far.

When I add the fresh 3 gallons of water, I use a small syringe to dose 3mL of APT 3. That's it! In contrast to my experiment tank, this bowl brings a lot of joy and visual interest for very little effort.

 

[JayP]

I don't think my OCD could handle the water being that close to the rim. I'm taking some time off this month and will hopefully finally get my bowl going. So you're only dosing 1ml per gallon once a week at water change?

 

[JayP]

Is the video taken in your new place or have you moved yet?

 

[Naturescapes_Rocco]

you're only dosing 1ml per gallon once a week at water change?

That's right! I also did this during the dark start, as it adds a good amount of PO4 and probably helped charge the unplanted aquasoil. So far so good!

It's awesomely easy; remove 3 gal to the sharpie line, add CaSO4, add MgSO4, add 3mL of APT 3, fill to brim. Feed fish 2-3x per week.

Haven't moved yet, I'm under contract! Hopefully moving in by the first week of June. Part of why I started this bowl was because I wanted a tank, but knew it had to be a small nano tank since I'd be moving soon.

 

[JayP]

I then squeezed a ton of bio media gunk from my other tank's filter into the water column, every other day.

After 24 hours, I did a ~50% water change:

During the next 10 days, I performed a the same ~50% (3 gal) water change every two days. I always dosed 30ppm Ca, ~8ppm total Mg, and 3mL APT 3 after adding the fresh water in. This dark start with combined water changes help cycle the bowl quickly, helps establish bacteria, and promotes oxygen and flow in a bowl that is otherwise stagnant without fish swimming around.

After almost 2 weeks of dark start and 50% water changes, it was ready for planting!

I'm confused as to the timing of all this.. You start out saying you're feeding the bowl every other day with media from other filters, followed by "after 24 hours" 50% WC and then jump to the next 10 days.

 

[Naturescapes_Rocco]

I'm confused as to the timing of all this.. You start out saying you're feeding the bowl every other day with media from other filters, followed by "after 24 hours" 50% WC and then jump to the next 10 days.

I started by adding filter gunk every other day for the first few days.

I didn't do my first WC until 24 hours in. After that initial WC, I continued to do WC every 2 days for about 2 weeks. No lights, no plants, just cycling and water changes. And dosing! Always adding the proper Ca, Mg, and APT 3 @ 1mL/gal.

I probably performed about 8-9 water changes in total over that 2 week period, then planted it.

 

[Kwyet]

Maybe you already explained this, but why remineralize and fertilize before you have plants or livestock?

 

[Naturescapes_Rocco]

Maybe you already explained this, but why remineralize and fertilize before you have plants or livestock?

Good question! I wouldn't say it's required by any means, but there's two reasons:

1) I believe our microbiome in our tanks should be kept as steady as possible. If I were to fill my bowl for a dark start with pure RO water, the sudden shock to all of the bacterial species when I suddenly add GH and fertilizers might not be great. This bowl has literally had zero algae at all, none. I really would like to attribute it to the fact that the water chemistry has basically been held constant for the entire lifespan from the start! Also, we know that aquasoil eats up phosphate, but bacteria (especially nitrifying bacteria) also use P to build their cell walls and internals, so that extra present PO4 probably helps a bit, too. Overall, I just like the idea of consistency for the bacterial populations from the very start.

2) "Charging" the aquasoil. We know aquasoil has crazy phosphate-stripping abilities when it's new, but it also absorbs all sorts of other nutrients, too. By repeatedly front loading the incoming water during the dark start period for 14+ days, I'm sure that any nutrient-absorbing potential the aquasoil had was filled.

So my theory is that the aquasoil was given a chance to cycle properly with ALL of the nutrients the bacteria could need, AND there was no shock to the system when I suddenly start dosing GH, Macros and Micros out of nowhere.

That's the theory, anyway!

 

[BranchScape]

Great thought process write up. The only shock to me is 1ml per gallon seems like a ton for a 6.7 gallon bowl without C02 which makes me question my thoughts on low tech nutrient load. I need to find a way to try this myself and not trigger my wife.

 

[Naturescapes_Rocco]

I'm sure you know I'm a big believer (and hopefully proof) that nutrients don't cause algae! But by front-load-dosing relative to the incoming water volume, nutrient levels can never exceed what's being dosed.

1ml/gal of APT 3 (apt complete) Adds:

• ~8ppm NO3
• ~4ppm PO4
• ~18ppm K
• ~3ppm Mg (total 8.2ppm Mg)
• ~0.25ppm Fe
  
  Those numbers are super reasonable for low tech with dense plant mass, especially knowing they can never exceed those numbers, too. The PO4 is a little high for my preference, but that's the price you pay for using a premade AIO. But 18ppm K is a good target for low tech, 8ppm NO3 is probably being reduced to 3-4ppm by the end of the week, Mg levels are good, and 0.25ppm Fe is a bit high but shouldn't be problematic.

So 1mL/1gal really isn't that much in the way of nutrients IMO!

 

[BranchScape]

I'm sure you know I'm a big believer (and hopefully proof) that nutrients don't cause algae! But by front-load-dosing relative to the incoming water volume, nutrient levels can never exceed what's being dosed.

1ml/gal of APT 3 (apt complete) Adds:

• ~8ppm NO3
• ~4ppm PO4
• ~18ppm K
• ~3ppm Mg (total 8.2ppm Mg)
• ~0.25ppm Fe
  
  Those numbers are super reasonable for low tech with dense plant mass, especially knowing they can never exceed those numbers, too. The PO4 is a little high for my preference, but that's the price you pay for using a premade AIO. But 18ppm K is a good target for low tech, 8ppm NO3 is probably being reduced to 3-4ppm by the end of the week, Mg levels are good, and 0.25ppm Fe is a bit high but shouldn't be problematic.

So 1mL/1gal really isn't that much in the way of nutrients IMO!

Ok, I wrongly assumed the ppm would be much higher without doing the math. That seems perfectly reasonable with those numbers. Thank you for providing them.