Journal Overly-Complicated 235g Nature-Style Aquarium

[Naturescapes_Rocco]

I think people stress too much about the specifics of cycling a tank. What I mean is, there are people who check ammonia levels religiously, let it rise to 2ppm, then water change, then add more, then water change, or let it sit...

I think the most important thing, whether you do a dark start or not, is a few really large water changes upon first planting. Nothing can really go wrong if you do too large of changes with aquasoil; you keep the microbiome in a good place. It's worked for me many times.

I personally love a dark start, but I usually combine dark start and large water changes. I SOMETIMES test my ammonia before adding plants or fish, but I know that two back to back 75% WC in 4 days will prevent even the worst ammonia from building up.

I think you'll be totally fine! Just don't slack on those WC!

 

[JayP]

I went and bought this 4-head Chihiros dosing pump and now that I am looking at it, I am curious as to what any of you that may have one (or similar) dose on each of the heads. On my other tanks, I use two basic dosing pumps, one each for macros and micros and that's it. Should I be splitting up the macros?

For many of us, the 2 channel doser is sufficient. Some people dose extra things. Some here that also have the 4 channel model use 1 or 2 of the extra channels as ATOs.

 

[Mr.Shenanagins]

I think in the 2 months I dark started, which is an overly long period. I did maybe 3 WC’s total. The sniff test is a pretty good indicator, there should virtually be no odor if it’s truly cycled.

 

[Koan]

Sparing the added theatrics that I've added in for fun, I am assuming that the tank will be just fine and I can just monitor ammonia/nitrite levels and move on to fish in a few weeks once plants have been established?

Here's a good guide to planting directly into fresh Aquasoil, if you don't have time to age it / "dark start", or if as in your case have already planted!

How to stabilize a new planted tank

New planted aquariums that are not yet biologically matured present a volatile environment for plants and inhabitants. Accelerate the biological maturity of the tank by adding seed bacteria from matured filters or substrate. More large water changes remove organic detritus and algae spores.

www.2hraquarist.com

 

[RockyProndoa]

I think people stress too much about the specifics of cycling a tank. What I mean is, there are people who check ammonia levels religiously, let it rise to 2ppm, then water change, then add more, then water change, or let it sit...

Well, I'm definitely in the latter half, lol. I'll likely check it once, maybe twice, and that's about it.

I still haven't wrapped my head around what the dark start does (though, I am assuming this is adopted from my reef friends as that is the new rage for starting a saltwater/reef tank because it essentially skips the ugly diatom stage), but at this point, it doesn't matter as I have forged ahead without it.

I'm forging ahead the way I usually do, lights on, co2 on, and planting heavy from the get-go. We'll see what happens!

 

[RockyProndoa]

And...I did find this on the UNS website which I found interesting. The image crops out the info, but the black/brown bars indicate the respective UNS black/brown soils vs a competitors soil ammonia readings during the initial 2 week cycling phase.

 

[Count Krunk]

What fish are you going to do?

 

[RockyProndoa]

What fish are you going to do?

Several large groups of tetras, two pairs of Ivanacara bimaculata, another pair or two of some other smaller SA cichlid, and then some bottom dwellers like cory cats. I don't plan on adding any livestock for at least another 3-4 weeks until I can get the tank and plants settled in.

 

[Count Krunk]

how large? they could be very large haha

 

[RockyProndoa]

how large? they could be very large haha

Ha. I haven't 'fully' decided yet if I'm being honest yet. I'm trying to avoid the chaos of tons of mixed species and stick with larger groups of just several species. I am also trying to support my local LFS shops - so much of it will depend on what they have in stock or can order at the time. I did see some Diamond Tetras the other day, which I had never considered, but seeing them in person they really are quite stunning.

But...to answer your question - I assume easily 100-150 total tetras/rasboras, 15-20 cories, and then the SA cichlids. We'll see how well I can balance the fish with the plants

 

[Count Krunk]

Sounds like a good plan! You going to qt the fish?

 

[Bsully]

Genuinely interested in hearing what others think.

Your location shows Toledo but you have MI paraphernalia hanging in your basement so definitely a conflict of interest!!

Nice tank so far Rocky!! I love big tanks and following as I have a tank with the same footprint and am anxious to see yours stocked!

One thing I want to add is make sure you do a power loss test once you get your water levels where they need to be to make sure your sump doesn't overflow when you lose it.
Not seeing check valves and most don't use them anyways so make sure the returns are drilled to prevent back flow thru them or set your nozzles at the very top of the water line.
Good luck!!

 

[Koan]

make sure you do a power loss test once you get your water levels where they need to be to make sure your sump doesn't overflow when you lose it

Aquarium Sump Water Level & Back-Siphon Safety Buffer Calculator - Aquaculator

Calculate aquarium sump safety buffer water levels, transient back-siphon drainage drops, and structural outage overflows.

aquaculator.com