Ladies an gentlemen, the syngonanthus king is back 
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- Thread starter mrmoss
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If you are on FB, I just found, a couple days ago, a group called Worldwide Eriocaulon Owners. There aren't many posts, but scrolling back there are people who grow from seed. Might be a good source for info. People also post some about Synogonthas.
I didn't realize how many Erois there were and that we don't have here in the US. It will make you drool for sure.
It might just be one of those groups where people are not selling/selling hint hint, but it's fun to look at. Most people seem to be in Germany.
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- #43
That title gets old. Used to or gives me ego i dont needLadies an gentlemen, the syngonanthus king is back
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- #44
Ya im in that group plus the hidden erio group by the lady from Japan. I got some of my plants imported from a guy in Germany. The euro kills though.
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- #45
The full power of daily nh4.
How do you achieve your 0 TDS ?
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- #47
Through my rodi system. The membranes are pushing 12ppm then the 3 di chambers bring it to 0ppm.
NOTE this is water change the actual tank is not 0ppm with all the fertilizers I put in
NOTE this is water change the actual tank is not 0ppm with all the fertilizers I put in
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- #48
Old aquascape continuation
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- #49
Mother stem rio uaupes
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- #50
Mound of Rio negro giant
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- #51
Tank 4
My algae junk tank. I had transferred all my erios grow from seed to my main tank (tank1) so this tank is to keep plants of excess and plants to store (storage). I will make this tank beautiful but in time. Im really lazy on water change but I plan to get weaponry and an arsenal for algae but it will take time. After that I can start doing more maintenance to keep it beautiful. All takes time and much much needed patience. I do get ideas of tearing it down ridding all the plants and doing more erio seeds but all this I gotta analyze. I dont want to do changes and rush into it. But then again time is running out and running out for all of us I believe. America has reached the tipping point?
P.s.
This is a light built by nikolay kraltchev. Its perfect spread and par can reach insane values. Its powered by a digital box where you can dim in percentages. Right now to me its my best led I have right now for growing syns erios and toninas. Ive never seen a bottom vichada sideshoot until now. I have tester ludwigia senegalensis in here so if it can grow reds id say its the perfect light. He uses led bulbs called sunlike. I wish he can make me more fixtures especially for my moss tank but he is a man of busy ness. Im tired of seeing beautiful red plants but to achieve them its a blurple spectrum. This sunlike led is perfect spectrum though. I believe its at 6000k.
My algae junk tank. I had transferred all my erios grow from seed to my main tank (tank1) so this tank is to keep plants of excess and plants to store (storage). I will make this tank beautiful but in time. Im really lazy on water change but I plan to get weaponry and an arsenal for algae but it will take time. After that I can start doing more maintenance to keep it beautiful. All takes time and much much needed patience. I do get ideas of tearing it down ridding all the plants and doing more erio seeds but all this I gotta analyze. I dont want to do changes and rush into it. But then again time is running out and running out for all of us I believe. America has reached the tipping point?
P.s.
This is a light built by nikolay kraltchev. Its perfect spread and par can reach insane values. Its powered by a digital box where you can dim in percentages. Right now to me its my best led I have right now for growing syns erios and toninas. Ive never seen a bottom vichada sideshoot until now. I have tester ludwigia senegalensis in here so if it can grow reds id say its the perfect light. He uses led bulbs called sunlike. I wish he can make me more fixtures especially for my moss tank but he is a man of busy ness. Im tired of seeing beautiful red plants but to achieve them its a blurple spectrum. This sunlike led is perfect spectrum though. I believe its at 6000k.
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- #52
Co2 for the win
Tanks getting dirty and things getting overgrown especially the syngonanthus. Im gonna be adding some fancy guppies so it'll be really challenging for me to dial in co2 right instead of blasting it. The guppies will help with the algae but my plants may suffer lowering co2. Once I add fish it becomes a fauna priority tank rather than plants plant priority. It was really easy growing these plants with such high co2...
Pictured is eriocaulon agumbey from india overcrowding. I went to my old ways in this tank with co2 and did it better than my old ways with co2. Lots of bottoms syn pedra and plants erio sexangulare with bba which guppies wont take care of but can easily be discarded and the tank will look nicer. The reason I keep the pedra bottoms is purely for propagation. Even these dirty bottoms produce clean sideshoots and multiply very easily so I leave them in. When u dont have algae on the soil itself in the spaces its likely the plants are doing well.
Tanks getting dirty and things getting overgrown especially the syngonanthus. Im gonna be adding some fancy guppies so it'll be really challenging for me to dial in co2 right instead of blasting it. The guppies will help with the algae but my plants may suffer lowering co2. Once I add fish it becomes a fauna priority tank rather than plants plant priority. It was really easy growing these plants with such high co2...
Pictured is eriocaulon agumbey from india overcrowding. I went to my old ways in this tank with co2 and did it better than my old ways with co2. Lots of bottoms syn pedra and plants erio sexangulare with bba which guppies wont take care of but can easily be discarded and the tank will look nicer. The reason I keep the pedra bottoms is purely for propagation. Even these dirty bottoms produce clean sideshoots and multiply very easily so I leave them in. When u dont have algae on the soil itself in the spaces its likely the plants are doing well.
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- #53
Syn pedra bottoms. You can zoom in and see the sideshoots are really clean and what I was referring to previous post above
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- #54
I like sharing for these reasons
I like being of use and being helpful
I like bragging
And id like to help myself in getting sales
Sales comes first and foremost for me
I suck at aquascaping but the type of plants I grow do all the work in looking pretty. Having algae free plants makes for a great picture. And usually it works. People come to you inquiring for plants so I dont have to advertise as much. The aquatics business can be very lucrative. Doing it right and planning it out can become a occupation or a nice side hustle. Going for the cheap quick sale will never get you anywhere. There are always certain plants that are hot and then die out from the hobby which makes hoarding a plant you love a good thing both for your passion and funds as well. This is riccardia sp u which has made me good money and sells really well for me. I was told that the u in the scientific world means micro.
I like being of use and being helpful
I like bragging
And id like to help myself in getting sales
Sales comes first and foremost for me
I suck at aquascaping but the type of plants I grow do all the work in looking pretty. Having algae free plants makes for a great picture. And usually it works. People come to you inquiring for plants so I dont have to advertise as much. The aquatics business can be very lucrative. Doing it right and planning it out can become a occupation or a nice side hustle. Going for the cheap quick sale will never get you anywhere. There are always certain plants that are hot and then die out from the hobby which makes hoarding a plant you love a good thing both for your passion and funds as well. This is riccardia sp u which has made me good money and sells really well for me. I was told that the u in the scientific world means micro.
- Thread starter
- #55
Merry Christmas everyone. The true Thanksgiving day.
I have to say this hobby is so awesome. The therapy the viewing the propagating the challenges the maintenance the beauty the beauty the beauty the passion the care the learning the experience the sales the old friends the new friends it all just makes me want to keep living keep doing keep learning keep enjoying. Sure its good to take breaks and miss it sometimes but im a LIFER.
I have to say this hobby is so awesome. The therapy the viewing the propagating the challenges the maintenance the beauty the beauty the beauty the passion the care the learning the experience the sales the old friends the new friends it all just makes me want to keep living keep doing keep learning keep enjoying. Sure its good to take breaks and miss it sometimes but im a LIFER.
It stands for the measurement micron!
As you can see the lowercase Greek letter mu looks like a "u" in Roman typeface
so the letter "u" is sometimes used to represent measurement units in microns. The American usage is micrometer, or "um".
A micron is equal to one millionth of a meter, or 0.001 millimeters. For example, a single Nitrospira bacteria from our filter microbiome is generally one to three microns in length
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- #57
Thank u very much! Very helpfulIt stands for the measurement micron!
As you can see the lowercase Greek letter mu looks like a "u" in Roman typeface
View attachment 12601
so the letter "u" is sometimes used to represent measurement units in microns.
A micron is equal to one millionth of a meter, or 0.001 millimeters. For example, a single Nitrospira bacteria from our filter microbiome is generally one to three microns in length
View attachment 12602
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- #58
Here are writeups I did that some are incomplete. I dont care to finish them i just want to get back to posting pictures again.
Mastering melting in soft acidic water plants. Overcrowding doesn't lead to melt. Lighting covers that as well as nutrients. If the plant is being fed nutrients (co2 n p k etc) and its not getting shaded it will not melt. Given parameters (gh kh are good) and good water where there is not a pollutant in it melting will not occur. Ive seen it just about everywhere nice tonina stems healthy and green but the bottoms are melted or yellowish. This doesn't happen to me. My toninas are full green all the way down except whats burried under substrate. With enough light overcrowding and touching of all these sensitive species melting will not occur. This requires high par (dont ask me how high I dont have a par meter) but I do however go by soil penetration (watching how lit the soil is in front you can see the light penetration and shade line) but also along with feeding the plants. So light and nutrients, soft acidic water, no contaminants all are key to not having these type of plants melt.
If u see my plants pearling they out as big bubbles not to dismiss the small bubbles but this is quite a site to see. There is literally no stream of bubbles or some will call false pearling because these plants are so well fed that there is no leaf damage unless i trim. No holes no nothing. If you think im doing ei, well im not. These things I had not accomplished before. Call it experience, evolution and learning.
Damn algae. My suggestion is this. If you see it manually remove it as soon as possible. Think like plants as they root they get stronger. New algae is way weaker than old algae. Allowing algae to grow weakens plants as well invites other algaes to grow. How manually remove. Well bba is tough but you can pluck the whole leaf off. Some algaes you can just siphon with a airline tube and it comes right off. Stringy filament type algaes is hard I suggest chemicals or fauna algae eaters. Amanos work very well for this type algae. Some algaes will go away on their own depending on aquasoil nh4/nutrient depletion or having a well balanced tank. (Incomplete)
Its 2025 almost 2026. I can almost be sure your tap water is contaminated. With all the pollution, the new chemicals, and contaminants tap water can be blamed.
My maintenance. Im old so I keep it easy (for the most part) filling rodi jugs is a real pain. I have 9 5 gallon jugs which I fill all at once so I can rest relax for the remainder of the time of water change or top offs before I have to refill those jugs all in one day again. A 5 gallon jug takes 30 mins with my rodi unit to fill and takes 4.5 hrs to fill all 9. At times I dread it but get it done.
(Incomplete)
Things im not good at
Making Dutch streets. Its fairly simple too. Just trim various lengths then plant in arrangement short to tall. When planting I kindve forget this and do my usual ways.
Im just not good at keeping fauna. Sure my main focus is the plants its the co2 that messes me up. Ive kept panda loaches, Discus, corydoras and cared for them greatly but that was without co2. Only shrimp I've done good and bred with co2.
(Incomplete)
.
There is a plague here in the usa and that plague is utricularia gibba. I try not to buy in America for this exact reason. If it enters my tank it ruins my whole experience. The only way I know how to get rid of it is manual removal. It comes off easily but also breaks easily leading small strands to multiply and take over certain areas. My friend sending plants has it and im really debating just throwing the plants away in the trash. Its worse in my view than any algae I could ever get.
You know why I like stands or hanging lights so much as they will reduce par but the accessibility more than anything makes it well worth it. I can get my hands in the tank at my leisure. If it sits on the rim it may block and get in your way.
Tank #4
Here is my 7.9 g landen rimless tank. Its mainly for storage im thinking making it my sale tank so I dont need to have gaps in my main tank (tank #1)
(Insert pics)
Mastering melting in soft acidic water plants. Overcrowding doesn't lead to melt. Lighting covers that as well as nutrients. If the plant is being fed nutrients (co2 n p k etc) and its not getting shaded it will not melt. Given parameters (gh kh are good) and good water where there is not a pollutant in it melting will not occur. Ive seen it just about everywhere nice tonina stems healthy and green but the bottoms are melted or yellowish. This doesn't happen to me. My toninas are full green all the way down except whats burried under substrate. With enough light overcrowding and touching of all these sensitive species melting will not occur. This requires high par (dont ask me how high I dont have a par meter) but I do however go by soil penetration (watching how lit the soil is in front you can see the light penetration and shade line) but also along with feeding the plants. So light and nutrients, soft acidic water, no contaminants all are key to not having these type of plants melt.
If u see my plants pearling they out as big bubbles not to dismiss the small bubbles but this is quite a site to see. There is literally no stream of bubbles or some will call false pearling because these plants are so well fed that there is no leaf damage unless i trim. No holes no nothing. If you think im doing ei, well im not. These things I had not accomplished before. Call it experience, evolution and learning.
Damn algae. My suggestion is this. If you see it manually remove it as soon as possible. Think like plants as they root they get stronger. New algae is way weaker than old algae. Allowing algae to grow weakens plants as well invites other algaes to grow. How manually remove. Well bba is tough but you can pluck the whole leaf off. Some algaes you can just siphon with a airline tube and it comes right off. Stringy filament type algaes is hard I suggest chemicals or fauna algae eaters. Amanos work very well for this type algae. Some algaes will go away on their own depending on aquasoil nh4/nutrient depletion or having a well balanced tank. (Incomplete)
Its 2025 almost 2026. I can almost be sure your tap water is contaminated. With all the pollution, the new chemicals, and contaminants tap water can be blamed.
My maintenance. Im old so I keep it easy (for the most part) filling rodi jugs is a real pain. I have 9 5 gallon jugs which I fill all at once so I can rest relax for the remainder of the time of water change or top offs before I have to refill those jugs all in one day again. A 5 gallon jug takes 30 mins with my rodi unit to fill and takes 4.5 hrs to fill all 9. At times I dread it but get it done.
(Incomplete)
Things im not good at
Making Dutch streets. Its fairly simple too. Just trim various lengths then plant in arrangement short to tall. When planting I kindve forget this and do my usual ways.
Im just not good at keeping fauna. Sure my main focus is the plants its the co2 that messes me up. Ive kept panda loaches, Discus, corydoras and cared for them greatly but that was without co2. Only shrimp I've done good and bred with co2.
(Incomplete)
.
There is a plague here in the usa and that plague is utricularia gibba. I try not to buy in America for this exact reason. If it enters my tank it ruins my whole experience. The only way I know how to get rid of it is manual removal. It comes off easily but also breaks easily leading small strands to multiply and take over certain areas. My friend sending plants has it and im really debating just throwing the plants away in the trash. Its worse in my view than any algae I could ever get.
You know why I like stands or hanging lights so much as they will reduce par but the accessibility more than anything makes it well worth it. I can get my hands in the tank at my leisure. If it sits on the rim it may block and get in your way.
Tank #4
Here is my 7.9 g landen rimless tank. Its mainly for storage im thinking making it my sale tank so I dont need to have gaps in my main tank (tank #1)
(Insert pics)
- Thread starter
- #59
My tank is no soda pop but pearling is extreme and it keeps going on and on and on. Pearling starts beginning in the 5 minute mark and keeps increasing into the photoperiod.
Algae farm
The redo
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- #60
Last pictures of tank 3 aquascape that did nothing for me in appeal. Now it has been torn down for a emmersed erio seed tank which will be flooded if I can get the seeds to grow. Monte carlo and crystal moss no co2 low light x2 bbs aquasoil
