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JacksonL
I Donated 2026
Last reply · posted in Do It Yourself (DIY)
Been meaning to write this up for a while, so here it is. Over the last few months I've built a full custom controller setup for my 130L planted, CO2 injected tank, running on three ESP32 boards working together. It replaced an ageing Up Aqua CO2/pH controller and turned into a genuinely complete automation system for water changes, dosing, CO2, top-off, and reservoir monitoring. Sharing the overview here in case it's useful or interesting to anyone else down a similar rabbit hole.

The short version​


Three boards, each with its own job:


  • Water change controller — drains, refills, remineralises, and doses the tank automatically, sitting mostly idle between weekly changes.
  • Tank controller — the brains of day-to-day operation, running CO2/pH control, top-off monitoring, the reservoir, and a small front panel with live readouts.
  • Alexa bridge — ties the whole thing into Alexa for voice control and equipment scenes, and handles the feeding routine.

They talk to each other over WiFi and three deliberate hardwired links for the communications that genuinely shouldn't depend on the network as they are safety critical.

Water changes​


Weekly, fully automated. Connect a line from the WaterDrop filter, a drain line that goes outside to the garden or lawn (both with quick connects and manual valves for safety), choose your water change volume in litres, press start and it then:
- runs through safety prompts to ensure everything is connected and safety valves are set correctly.
-prompts to clean prefilters
-prompts to measure remineralisers (calculated on screen, based on your water change volume selection).
-it then drains and refills with RO water. It also turns off/ on smart plugs so skimmers, co2, heaters ect are off for draining then start to turn them on as water fill reaches certain thresholds.
  • during refil it remineralises to target GH and KH from a container with a magnetic stirrer with a perialstatic dosing pump that fires at set percentages of fill.
  • it then connects to my Chihiros dosing pumps and fires the dosing boosts to preload nutrients (again these doses are scaled with selected water change volume)
-all without me touching anything. In fact it now means I can mow the lawn during water changes!
- It doses potassium bicarbonate for KH, calcium and magnesium sulfate for GH, and boosts macros (nitrate, phosphate, potassium, micros), again, all scaled to my actual water change volume.
Everything's logged, every step confirmed before moving to the next, with a wizard-style setup so I can adjust the fill amount, KH target, and anything else on the fly.
I also get phone updates, the fill solenoid is connected with a flow rate sensor, temperature probe and TDS sensor. So every 10L I get an update on the flow rate, tds and temperature of that 10L fill and average so far, so I can spot any issues. It will also abort the water change, stop filter.

CO2 and pH​

This was the original reason the whole project started. My old analogue controller had a pretty coarse hysteresis, and in low KH water even small CO2 swings move pH more than I'd like. The new controller runs a proper pH probe on a scheduled window, targets a specific pH with a tight, tunable hysteresis, and logs everything continuously. It also catches things a dumb timer never could, a sudden pH crash with the solenoid already closed pointed straight at a CO2 regulator dumping its tank, something I'd never have caught otherwise until it was a much bigger problem. The Atlas Ezo ph sensor setup is elite and far more accurate than my previous setup. I can also see live updates, get phone alerts for certain events and have set safety alets and shutoffs for events like rapid changes in ph.
I have also put a weight sensor under my CO2 bottle so it tells me how full/empty my co2 bottle is and predicts refill date based on useage (this is untested as it's still so new, I don't have the data for it to be accurate.)

Dosing​

Being sick of the Chihiros app occasionally being unavailable this year, I have given over control of the scheduling and setup to my controller. I have my own dashboard and phone app that does this now and can send schedules and settings to the Chihiros pumps. It has taken some trial error and bluetooth sniffing apps to work this out but it is rock solid now.
Four channel dosing pump, fully scripted daily doses plus automatic post-water-change boosts, calculated from my actual verified nutrient targets rather than rough guesses. Doses are triggered automatically the moment a water change finishes.

Top-off and reservoir​


For now, the auto top-off unit itself does the actual work, but the controller now watches the reservoir independently, a proper pressure-based level sensor for the real litre count, plus a simple mechanical float as a dumb, sensor-agnostic backup. If the float ever trips, ATO shuts down immediately and I get a notification, worded differently depending on whether the pressure sensor agrees with the float or not, since a disagreement between the two usually points at the pressure sensor itself needing a look rather than a genuinely empty reservoir. I have some optical sensors on the way, and hopefully by next week the controller is running the ATO independently.

Feeding​


A small but genuinely nice touch. Feeding pauses CO2 injection, filter and skimmer automatically, it's voice activated or you can use a unit mounted button, and the front panel readouts switch to a simple "feeding" display while the filter's off, since the normal sensor numbers would be meaningless with no flow through the lines anyway.

Remote monitoring​


Everything logs to a Grafana dashboard, I have pH, temperature, TDS, reservoir level se sors, it also logs CO2 state, with history of all controller actions that I can actually look back through rather than just a live snapshot. Genuinely useful for spotting slow trends, not just catching sudden problems.

Alexa integration​

Voice control for scenes around water changes, changing settings and feeding, equipment turning off and on automatically at the right points in each process, and a physical feed button that fires the exact same routine as the voice command.

Safety, and why it mattered more than any single feature​


If there's one thing I'd want someone building something similar to take away, it's this. Every automated system that can act on its own needs to fail toward safe, not just work correctly when everything's fine.


A few of the principles that ended up running through the whole build:

  • Solenoids fail closed. Power loss means CO2 and water stay off, never on, by hardware design, not firmware logic that could have a bug in it.
  • A tripped safety condition can't be quietly dismissed. If something raises an alert, like the backup float, you can acknowledge it, but the system won't let you clear it while the actual problem is still physically present. No accidentally waving away a real fault.
  • The one link that has to work regardless of WiFi, does. CO2 and ATO pausing during a water change runs over a direct hardwired connection between boards, not the network. Everything else can be a bit more relaxed about connectivity; that one thing can't be.
  • A backup sensor's only job is to disagree usefully. The float switch isn't there to be a second source of truth, it's there to catch the primary sensor being wrong. When they disagree, the alert tells me which one to actually go check.
  • Never power anything from two sources at once. Learned that one the hard way, destroyed a board's regulator early on doing exactly that. So it now has wifi firmware updates for each board, to save the USB input power when updating by PC

    None of this was designed perfectly the first time either, more caught through actually running it and paying attention than getting it right on paper up front. A few genuine bugs this build taught me: features that were fully coded but sitting behind a switch I'd forgotten to flip on, so they looked complete but never actually ran; a menu screen that could lose progress if you walked away at the wrong moment during a slow calibration step. Both fixed once they showed up in real use, which is really the whole point of building it in stages rather than all at once and hoping. I have spent weeks finding and squashing bugs before I have given over control of the tank to it.

    Next on the list:
    Heater/fan control, full ATO control, uninteruptable power unit uninterruptible that alerts me to power outages and turns on air pumps.

    It is also in a pretty basic case and the cutouts are purposely oversized. I have ordered smoked acrylic to 'wrap' it in so it appears to be black rectangular box, with only the LED parameter readouts (temp, pH, TDS and ATO reservoir litres) visible through the smoke tinted acrylic and the two black control knobs that wake sleeping OLED screens, all other controls will be behind hinged flaps. I want to make sure all the sensors etc are wired correctly though before I wrap and anchor wiring.

    The great thing is, every time I think of something I want to add, it is a coding session with the help of AI and finding the sensors or equipement required. I can wake up with an idea and genuinely have it implemented with an hour or two of soldering and coding. It fits my tank like a glove and is infinitely adaptable. menu setup and setting options all added as I think of them!

    I will add some pictures below of the in progress build! I wanted to share in case anyone is thinking of doing the same, with the prices of ESP32s and the sensors (except for the Atlas Ezo chips! which are expensive but well worth it!) it is definitely a project in reach of anyone with a basic idea of code and soldering.
29 Replies · 1581 views
JayP
Supporting I Donated 2026 Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
Anybody else stay up late to watch the IAPLC rankings. As usual, my choices would have been different. Some scapes ranked in the 40s got picked by some judges as the best, so at least I'm not alone in that. Highest ranking by a U.S. contestant was Ryan Noel at, I believe, 31. Congrats to Ryan.
7 Replies · 141 views
W
· posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
JayP's thread reminded me this contest results were announced recently.
I'll never be a Dutch or Nature aquarium scaper. I don't have that talent. But I do appreciate the organized chaos of nature. Perhaps these scapes will inspire you.
Note: This site isn't particularly user friendly, click on the name of the tank in the left hand column to view it.

0 Replies · 14 views
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S
· posted in Equipment Discussions
Hi all,

I recently got a second hand Kamoer F4 Pro dosing pump, but have some difficulty setting it up. The problem is the 'flow calibration'. Hopefully any of you has the same dosing pump and knows how to solve this issue.

As far as I can see, I installed all the hardware correctly and updated the firmware to the newest version. I replaced the in- and outlet hoses for new 3 (ID) - 5(OD) silicon hoses. Also did a factory reset in the app (two times already). The problem is when I calibrate a channel (already tried this with both channel 1 and 2), the calibration dose seems to high for the app to accept it. I tried both the 5 sec and 10 sec giving me accordingly a 10 and 20ml calibration dose. When I enter these doses, the app shows the message 'error setting parameter'.
When I filled in at 10 sec that it only 10ml (whereas it was 20ml), the calibration worked and saved successfully.

Does any of you know how to solve this?
0 Replies · 15 views
Dennis Wong
I Donated 2026 Expert in Residence MOTM Winner
Last reply · posted in Journals
I have always liked Rotala florida as plant due to its strongly colored leaves, but realized that I haven't actually aquascaped much with it - meaning to integrate it as part of a layout and not just growing a bunch of it in farm/collector style tank. Using plants in a layout in tighter bunches, and in competition with surrounding plants/hardscape is much harder than growing it farm style in a single patch - it also means be able to shape/trim the bushes to match the overall curves of the layout.

Back in 2016 or so when I first received Rotala florida samples from north america, I could only grow it in sparser bunches. It looked nice in macro photographs but I could not envision using it an bush that would show off well as part of a layout unless I can grow it much denser. In the recent years, there were two main discoveries that I found in my experimentation, the first is that it grows better in moderate GH (5 dGH+) compared to super soft water (say <3dGH), and that it grew better in certain soil mixes (I experimented with different garden soil mixes when engineering the composition of APT Feast). Eventually I integrated some of the soil data into APT Feast's composition, and paired with the higher power lights readily available today, I find that I could finally grow the plant the way I envisioned as part of overall layout. I could prune it dense, as the base stems were healthy enough to sprout dense side shoots after trimming - and the secondary/tertiary shoot tips were as fully colored and sized similar to a primary shoot tip that hasn't been subjected to topping yet.

As a midground stem, it works very well due to its slower growth rate vs other colored stem plants.

Against the deep purple of Rotala florida, I found that Golden white clouds worked quite well. So now they are the main inhabitants of the tank.

Tank this week (25/6/2025)
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Tank started out like this:
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A week or 2 after initial planting (5/5/2025). I reused old aquasoil from the previous scape, so I planted all plants up front rather than waiting more time for the tank to stabilize, with the idea that I could out-grow any algae issues. Initially wanted to add H. Chai but it really didn't fit the overall color scheme, and the bushes by the side were too invasive to be compatible with having a chai patch I think.

Since it was going to contain Rotala florida, I thought I might as well throw in other high demand troublesome species such as the Red Eriocaulon quinguangulare, blood vomit. I settled on Rotala tulunadensis for the background as I wanted something dense and shapeable.

Tank specs:
60x36x36cm
Filter: Oase biomaster 250, all sponge media
CO2 injected through inline atomizer
Substrate: APT Feast
Water column: APT Sky to raise GH to 5dGH, 2ml of APTe per day.

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Light distance. Interestingly, not crazy high PAR - just around 200-250 umols PAR at the substrate level.

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Trimming and shaping: Most bushes were shaped by cutting individual outlier shoots one by one. Only Rotala blood red and the Rotala tulunadensis was straight trimmed across the entire top once.

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This is how the Rotala tulunadensis looked like after a straight trim on 29/5/2025. About 3 weeks from when the top picture at top of this page was taken. It took the plant a whole week + to show new shoots. It seems straight trimming slows down the plant quite a bit, but allows for a very dense & neat canopy afterwards.


2hrAquaristDSCF4019E.webp
There are some interesting plants stuffed here and there. Some Eriocaulon caulescens? bolivia? that local hobbyists passed on to me. Carved out a patch for Syngonanthus vichada - slow grower, but the couple of babies that came have doubled in size so I think they should be alright. I think I will move them to a larger tank with more space.

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Only discovered the color combination with the Golden white clouds when the tank matured, but its one of my favourite fish-plant combinations now. I think that while some of the species are a bit picky about growth conditions, one thing I really like about this tank is that most things have moderate/slow growth rates, which makes maintenance with regards to removing excess growth less tedious.
Elatine triandra is used as a low growing green filler plant - it does this role well. As it does not root very deeply, I can easily cut and pull off excess growth easily. Its the fasting growing plant in the layout that requires frequent removal of excess growth.

Some more close-ups.
2hrAquaristDSCF3337E blood vomit.webp
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2hrAquaristDSCF3171E tulu florida sunset.webp
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I'm trying to replicate concepts of this layout (slowing growing bushes) into my 4ft tank.
250 Replies · 38152 views
JacksonL
I Donated 2026
Last reply · posted in Equipment Discussions
I wanted to share my experience so far with a cheap flow meter from Aliexpress.
I am generally a “you get what you pay for” aquarist, but I have taken a gamble due to circumstances. It is still early days, but it feels like it may have paid off.
Looking to add a flow meter to help tune my CO2 in a newly set up 130L tank, I searched far and wide for the different options. They were few and far between, most were for far larger flows than I needed and those that were appropriate were ridiculously expensive to get to Australia. So I went searching on the various Chinese discount sites and came across the LZB-3WB flow meters. They are cheap… real cheap. Less than $30 Australian landed, which made me nervous, but felt it was worth a shot at that price.
Not knowing what flow ranges I would need I ordered a 6-60ml/minute model.
After installing it, it was clearly too high of a range for my tank, but it did allow for some visibility while adjusting CO2. It was certainly better than a bubble counter.
Here is a picture of it action:
1774008536678.webp
As you can see, the reading is below the scale of the meter, but with a marker I could at least set a starting point as I adjusted my CO2 higher. Also the adjustment valve was useless, a tiny turn would shut the flow off or open it to max out the meter.
I ordered the below as a replacement:
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2.5-25ml/minute seems like a good range for my tank.
As a bonus the valve is better than most standard regulator needle valves. I can adjust the flow in increments of about 1ml/minute.
Below is the valve in action:
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They have been in service for 2 months total now, 1 month each, so still an early review. It has been a solid upgrade though and was an easy install. They come with big 8mm barbed fittings but they can be unscrewed to reveal 1/8 female threads that standard needle valves for aquariums fit. I have also got some 1/8 to push fit fittings that I am yet to install as I am heading away on holiday for 2 weeks soon and don’t want to make any changes for the house-sitters to potentially have to fix!
Pros: adjusting my CO2 was made so much easier by being able to see exactly how much of an increase I was making with each adjustment. Monitoring that the valve isn’t drifting has been easy also, a quick check of the meter tells me it is steady.
Cons: I doubt that the reading is accurate. This means little to me, as I am not using it for a calculation or comparison between tanks. As long as the reading is consistent, even if it is wrong, I am fine with that. Also, the max pressure is listed as 40psi. I am unsure if that is a failure or accuracy maximum. Again, it doesn’t affect me as I run a low regulator pressure due to using a reactor. If I were using a diffuser that needed a high pressure, it may make me nervous.
As always, with any cheap gear, your mileage may vary. But, I thought it was worth sharing as it may help those with limited access to flow meters of appropriate sizes. So far it is proving to be the second best $25 I have spent on this tank, second only to the super red bristlenose I have in the tank.
33 Replies · 2371 views
BenB
Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Specific Plant Discussions
I mention this plant on occasion, but no one ever comments. So I thought I'd make a post for others and me for future reference.
It is my favorite Erio. It is a darker green, doesn't get too big, and for me it has never sent up any seed stalks.

I find it easy to grow. I have high light but nothing crazy at 124PAR and high CO2, 50+ppm. It gets about max 3-4" and makes side daughter plants when large. I'm not sure my dosing scheme is. Sort of an EI daily dosing kind of thing.

What gets me is every autumn, it starts to melt. I'm not sure how it knows it's autumn with consistent light and a heater, but it must get a little cooler in the tank or something. The plant starts to turn brown and sends up (I'm not sure of the correct term) vegetative stalks with little plantlets on the ends. I've found you can plant these stalks into the substrate with the plantlet on top, and it will grow into a new plant. They've been easy to grow. This is the third year this has happened to me.
Pic of plantlets below. I'll try to get a better one sometime. All I had time for tonight was a crappy phone pic.

This year I divided one of the mother plants in hopes that it wouldn't fully melt and would regrow. That is still in progress.

Anyone else's experiences are welcome.

DSC09694a.webp

This plant is the same plant as the one on the right above.
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8 Replies · 260 views
Art
Art
Staff member I Donated 2026 Founding Member
· posted in Meet & Greet Forum
Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @justtankin!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
0 Replies · 20 views
Art
Art
Staff member I Donated 2026 Founding Member
Last reply · posted in Media of the Month Forum
This month's theme is: plant, hardscape and fish

This one is going to be tough but I hope some of you take up the challenge. Take a picture that captures a plant, some hardscape and at least one fish in the same picture.

Be as artistic and creative as you like.

The rules:
  • Submissions are allowed between October 7 and October 23.
  • Voting will start on October 23 at 12:01 am Eastern time.
  • Voting will end on October 31 at 11:30 pm Eastern time.
The prize:

A $25 store credit from BurrAqua thanks to @Burr740!
6 Replies · 310 views
Art
Art
Staff member I Donated 2026 Founding Member
· posted in Meet & Greet Forum
Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @liamcsail!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
0 Replies · 23 views
HardeeParty
Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Journals
Time to start a new thread.

I’ll fill in some details later, but I’m working on the hardscape now. Any and all criticism is appreciated. The vision is nothing more, and nothing less, than something appealing to the eye.

90cm x 30cm x 30cm Lifegard Aquatics ultra clear bookshelf tank. Buce and anubias on the hardscape, stems towards the back and center, mid to front carpet with some changes in shade and texture down to a flat grade on the right side of the tank.

Lily pipe inlet and skimmer will be in the back left corner with the outflow in the front left to hopefully achieve circular flow. I’ll be running an in-line diffuser. Light will be the P600 Pro that I regrettably did not upside to 900. Oh well. I’ll mount it high and hopefully it’ll have enough spread.

I have some dragon stone and red lava rock rubble I’ll use at the base to blend into the substrate, as well as some stratum I may or may not cap with.

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301 Replies · 34094 views
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