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hamfist
Last reply · posted in Journals
This isn't exactly a Journal, although it may become one. I am relatively new member here and thought I should introduce my tanks.

THis 150 x 60 x 60 cm tank has been running for at least a decade with the same inert fine gravel media and Eheim CLassic filters. However, it had never had real plants in it until around a year ago, when I decided to try my hand at converting it to a planted aquarium and getting rid of all the plastic plants. I had been having some success with low tech planted smaller shrimp aquaria but this was a whole new challenge.
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THe big main difference was 60cm depth ot the aquarium which creates just enormous differences in PAR a different points in the aquarium, and PAR levels at the substrate are not high. I have not been able to afford expensive lights yet so am simply running a pair of 120cm Hygger 36W luminaires. Two lights minimum were needed to cover the 60cm depth of the aquarium.
I struggled a lot with most species for a long time and the game changer was deciding to take the plunge with CO2, and I added a fire extinguisher system around 4 months ago. Now injected into a Horizontal Yugang reactor for nice clear water. THings became a lot easier with 30 ppm of CO2. Another significant improvement was adding boluses of aquatic compost and, more recently, a high nutrient aquasoil underneath the gravel using a "sawn-off-10ml syringe"
I have been through a number of different fertilizing schemes and products and have recently (2 weeks ago) settled on adding my own DIY dry salts in a daily EI scheme as water column ferts.

So ........
lights - 2 x 120cm 42W Hygger luminaires.
filtration - 3 x Eheim Classic 2217 ecternal filters,
substrate - inert fine gravel with injected compost and aquasoil boluses for root nutrition.
water column ferts - dry salts , daily EI scheme. One 50% weekly water change.
Water - RO, remineralised to 5 dGH with Salty Shrimp Bee Minerals GH+. Zero dKH.
CO2 - fire extinguisher cylinder system injected via a Yugang reactor. 30 ppm CO2 achieved throughout lighting period.
Oase Crystalskim 600 surface skimmer.

CUrrent plants. .........
Alternanthera reineckii rosaefolia
Bacopa amplexicaulis Aquafleur
Blyxa japonica
Cryptocoryne balansae
Cryptocoryne Wendtii Red
Eriocaulon sp vietnam
Hygrophila corymbosa
Hygrophila polysperma
Hygrophila polysperma Rosanervig
Hygrophila triflora
Limnophila heterophylla
Limnophila rugosa
Ludwigia palustris “super red”
Pogostemon helferi
Pogostemon samsonii
Rotala Bossii
Rotala Colorata

FIsh ...........
6" electric blue acara
Golden gourami
SAE
10 x Congo tetras
4 x scissortail rasboras
12 x harlequins
4 x cherry barbs
4 x Corydorus sterbai
1 x Stiphodon ornatus (at least 12 years old).
6 x Otocinclus
8 x Whitefin bentosi tetras
2 x amano shrimp
probably plus a few I've forgotten. basically the fish load is pretty high and fish poop/food waste contributes very significantly to the N & P input into the tank.

Most of the current plant species are doing well. The Rotala colorata is growing like a weed and has to be trimmed heavily weekly. The Limnophila heterophylla I want to phase out as it grows 12" per week and has been useful to serve a purpose as other plants have established but I am becoming fed up of cutting it back 3-4 times a week. Thankfully there are only a couple of small patches remaining and I think I will be able to phase them out within a few weeks.

The main problem I have had is, of course, algae. I admit I have constantly changed multiple things in quick succession so I think I have generallly been causing quite a bit of plant stress and have been reaping the consequences of this with GDA mostly. The front glass has needed cleaning twice weekly until very recently.
THankfully I have managed to achive rather more of a settled state over the last 2 weeks and foresee only slow and occasional changes from this point. I have my long term fert scheme sorted out and steady. Daily dosing gives me nice and steady levels. NO3 now really only changes within roughly a 6-7 ppm range during the week. LIghting is steady and now seems appropriate. PAR is around 20 on the substrate, up to around 100 near the surface, so its a relatively low/medium light set up. PLant growth is now generally fast enough for me and I hope that I am approaching having the plant mass to see then end of the constant GDA conflict.

I am sure there will be further evolution to come but thats where we are at the moment.
Heres a couple more pics. The angle makes it look as if there is a large swathe of unplanted gravel at the front of the tank but in reality its only about 5cm I like to maintain a bit of a space for front glass maintenance and to create a bit of a clearer space on the substrate for me to view fish doing their thing. the substrate is also much deeper than it appears as the tank is at least 1" deeper than the wooden front part of the stand.
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17 Replies · 1973 views
D
Last reply · posted in Equipment Discussions
Hello, can anyone running the ARC small acrylic reactor on a 40 breeder tell me what your outlet position is and what ph drop or co2 ppm you are getting?
5 Replies · 68 views
HardeeParty
Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Journals
Time to start a new thread.

I’ll fill in some details later, but I’m working on the hardscape now. Any and all criticism is appreciated. The vision is nothing more, and nothing less, than something appealing to the eye.

90cm x 30cm x 30cm Lifegard Aquatics ultra clear bookshelf tank. Buce and anubias on the hardscape, stems towards the back and center, mid to front carpet with some changes in shade and texture down to a flat grade on the right side of the tank.

Lily pipe inlet and skimmer will be in the back left corner with the outflow in the front left to hopefully achieve circular flow. I’ll be running an in-line diffuser. Light will be the P600 Pro that I regrettably did not upside to 900. Oh well. I’ll mount it high and hopefully it’ll have enough spread.

I have some dragon stone and red lava rock rubble I’ll use at the base to blend into the substrate, as well as some stratum I may or may not cap with.

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299 Replies · 33459 views
BenB
Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Specific Plant Discussions
I mention this plant on occasion, but no one ever comments. So I thought I'd make a post for others and me for future reference.
It is my favorite Erio. It is a darker green, doesn't get too big, and for me it has never sent up any seed stalks.

I find it easy to grow. I have high light but nothing crazy at 124PAR and high CO2, 50+ppm. It gets about max 3-4" and makes side daughter plants when large. I'm not sure my dosing scheme is. Sort of an EI daily dosing kind of thing.

What gets me is every autumn, it starts to melt. I'm not sure how it knows it's autumn with consistent light and a heater, but it must get a little cooler in the tank or something. The plant starts to turn brown and sends up (I'm not sure of the correct term) vegetative stalks with little plantlets on the ends. I've found you can plant these stalks into the substrate with the plantlet on top, and it will grow into a new plant. They've been easy to grow. This is the third year this has happened to me.
Pic of plantlets below. I'll try to get a better one sometime. All I had time for tonight was a crappy phone pic.

This year I divided one of the mother plants in hopes that it wouldn't fully melt and would regrow. That is still in progress.

Anyone else's experiences are welcome.

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This plant is the same plant as the one on the right above.
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1 Replies · 31 views
Art
Art
Staff member I Donated 2026 Founding Member
Last reply · posted in Forum News/Feedback
This is the future home for the announcements when someone obtains an achievement badge. Let the games begin!
2050 Replies · 75112 views
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Art
Art
Staff member I Donated 2026 Founding Member
Last reply · posted in Meet & Greet Forum
Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @Binnhim!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
1 Replies · 17 views
C
Last reply · posted in Fertilizing and Aquarium Chemistry
Hi everyone, I'm curious. My pH is 0 and my GH is 7. My pH is 5.5/5.6 all day. I use CO2 24/7. My pH drop is 1.6/1.7. I degas the water with an air pump for two hours, then I check every hour until the pH becomes stable. Why does the drop control always stay green? Isn't the pH drop high for a 0KH? Should it be yellow? Or am I wrong? Thank you very much.
12 Replies · 826 views
Tim Harrison
Last reply · posted in Journals
My new scape. It’s been a while. I’ve been busy finishing my novel. It’s published now so back to scaping.

It’s a classic triangular scape and I’m calling it Quantum Entanglement. It’s a working title, so I might change that. Sorry mods.

The real star is the light. Off Amazon for around $130. Fully controllable with a remote. Great value. https://amzn.eu/d/0eRX5eCo

I want to plant it with mainly buces and small anubias spp. on the rocks and wood and MC carpet, with some crypt nevellii or C. X Willisii, and stauro in the shady parts and maybe a ludwigia mini super red highlight behind the last rock on the left.
17 Replies · 343 views
artandsoul
Last reply · posted in Journals
I feel i need to do a journal so I have a internet calendar on what's happened or Ill forget lol! This is now 4 months back into the planted tank world and I'm happy to be back yet lost on true aquascapingI I have a current 29g as a farm tank for future builds going. zrdr 4l co2 bought locally full setup for 40.00, 29g free. A 20long I just bought with metal stand, hygger decent new led light.new heater. few foam bubble filters, ar a nice dual air pump. some new stratum about 16lbs , tons of good food, etc etc and 6 live plants crypts, swords, anubis about 30 stems of rotundifolia 12" tall for 85,00 it was a decent deal with what is came with , I thought!
Original plans was a 29 and 20 long. Well 3 weeks forward to 3 days ago picked up a free 36 bow front with stand, foods.heater, some dragon stone, bubbler all working freeby deal of the year for sure! The tanks pretty clean, some light hard water stains lll razor blade off very clean. Did come with about 35lbs stratum and blk rocks mix.

I threw substrate in tank after light rinse. LOL it went to pitch blk even after 2 big filters with filter floss still blk water after 36 hours later its muck now the stratum is crap imo other than deeper substrate to cover up with build. I have no clue on any age of the stratum 2 months or 5 years no info was free on side of road literally. I decided today to dump the stratum its a dam mess! may strain the stratum with my several size buckets to strain out small materials away from the blk gravel and use it with eco!? Just got 2 20lb bags of eco complete for 55 shipped my 2005 go to, easy no breakdown and same cost as bulk gravel from pet stores in the end.
I Would do the blk blasting sand its cheaper but don't want all sand and in end as I still do some gravel clean monthly oops.. The eco complete last imo forever I have 20 year old eco now in tank. Yeah its inert but still whole rocks. I"Ill be posting many pics of the my dry scapes holy hell! And more as it goes. Its been 19 years since I've done a planted tank def not a newbie just don't remember as much as I did and things have changed any help appreciated for sure! Joe burr has been help sure thanks dutchscape god!

Posted few pics of old tanks 19 years ago when I didn't know what an aquascape was lol no co2 just dry ferts, metride 14 and power compacts it worked! algae was very null. Im calling my new tanks the cheap skape 20 and now 36g the freebie. I usually try to go cheapo as I can get Im not rich rather spend 30.00 on steaks at home than 30.00 on stems lol. I'm mr diy I only buy what I cant build usually.
19 Replies · 1201 views
JayP
Supporting I Donated 2026 Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
I hadn't seen it mentioned by others that attended Aquashella, but if you hadn't already heard about it or seen it in Aquashella videos, ADA has come out with Amazonia Pro. It's not a replacement for Version 2, but an addition. It is essentially Version 2 on steroids with higher nutrients and of course the negative side effect of potentially higher initial ammonia leaching and, if your not prepared and skilled, more chance of algae. That's even from the mouth of Homma-san himself. The scaping competitors were using it in the competition and AFA was selling 9l bags at the show. They said it would be available on the website within the next couple weeks.
40 Replies · 987 views
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NC AL
Last reply · posted in Equipment Discussions
In my never ending quest to piddle around, I have been looking at setting up a nano eco tank/bowl with minimum maintenance. The main issue I have is controlling the temp. The temps in my house fluctuate between 68 - 71 degree regularly and can drop to lower 60s a few weeks in the fall and spring when we do not have the heater on.

Has anyone thought about or had success using an animal heating pad under the bowl/tank? While most are designed for reptiles and regulate between 100-120F, there are some for more mixed use that can be controlled from 68F and up. I don't think this would be too hard to set up. Could be to keep the inside of the tank clear of equipment. Radiant floor heating for your shrimp/fish.

Heating Pad
10 Replies · 137 views
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