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This 5'x2'x2' tank has been running for at least 10 years, but has been 100% a "fish" tank. Embarrassingly all plants were plastic. However, it does mean that the filters and inert sand/gravel substrate are biologically nicely mature. I am new to the forum so I thought I would introduce myself and the tank to the group.
Almost exactly 1 year ago I decided to try and turn this plastic planted tank into a properly planted fish tank. I had been having some success with planted small low tech shrimp tanks and felt I had the skills to convert this main family display tank to a properly planted tank as well.
So over the last year this tank has evolved considerably, as I learned more and more about fertilisers (which are expensive for this size of tank unless you use dry salts), lighting etc, etc. (After a year I still feel mostly like a beginner).The game-changer was a couple of months ago when I started CO2 injection and suddenly My success rate jumped massively. I still have the challenges of an inert substrate but the CO2 helped enormously.
Here's the tank as of right now
So I'll try and list some stuff .........
Tank - 150 x 60 x 60cm
Filters - 3 x Eheim 2217 canisters. All filled with Eheim coarse foam pads.
Substrate - a mixture of coarse sand and fine gravel. All inert, from around 1-3 mm grain size.
Water - RO remineralised with Salty Shrimp Bee Minerals GH+, to zero dKH, 5 dGH. 50% water change weekly.
Water column ferts - These are from a brand called Solufeed, which is becoming popular in the niche market of planted aquaria in the UK. THese are not aquatic-oriented but are very popular in the hydroponic growing sector here. Brainier folks than me on UKAPS have worked out the best products and right doses. I don't have a set of scales and am inherently a bit lazy about these things so I converted the recommended weights of ferts for my size tank into level teaspoons of dry salts. The tank is big enough so that I can simply dose dry salts daily (I do dissolve them in a jug first).
Macros - Solufeed 2:1:4 High K (https://www.solufeedshop.com/214-high-k-1-kg-18-p.asp) - 1/4 tsp daily, plus K2SO4 - 1/8 tsp daily.
Micros - Solufeed Sodium-free TEC (https://www.solufeedshop.com/tec-sodium-free-54-p.asp) - 1/16 tsp daily.
Substrate ferts - spot-injected boluses of aquatic compost where required.
Lighting - 2 x 120cm Hygger LED units. Currently around 20-30 PAR on the substrate using the Photone app on my iphone. Rising up to 80-90 PAR near the surface.
CO2 - FIre extinguisher system. Cheap regulator, solenoid/timer. Homemade horizontal Yugang reactor plumbed into a variable bypass loop in the outlet of one of the canister filters. Use of Hanna CO2 test confirms around 30 ppm CO2 throughout key lighting period. Tank is aerated overnight.
Temp - heaterstat 25 C
Livestock .......
Plants - I have been through quite a few and have kept those which have worked well. Most species are now a lot more successful with the added CO2.
Currently .......
Alternanthera reineckii rosaefolia (I am struggling a lot with this. Its growing but all leaves becoming algae covered after a couple of weeks)
Bacopa amplexicaulis Aquafleur (seems to need lower light so is tucked away at each end of the tank)
Cryptocoryne balansae (new)
Cryptocoryne Wendtii Red (new)
Eriocaulon sp vietnam (new)
Hygrophila corymbosa (new)
Hygrophila polysperma Rosanervig (new)
Limnophila heterophylla (continues to grow around 12" a week, to be phased out)
Limnophila rugosa (new)
Ludwigia palustris “super red”
Pogostemon helferi (this was an in vitro plant but has grown superbly for me so far. I have even had to remove a load)
Pogostemon samsonii (new)
Rotala bossii
Rotala colorata (thrives in this tank)
Rotala rotundifolia red (thrives but not enough light for good colouration)
Staurogene repens
Challenges with the tank have been mainly trying to deal with lighting the 24" depth and also substrate fertilisation.
Lighting - I have two cheap long Hygger luminaires across the top of the tank, so I have good coverage across the tank but the difference in PAR from top to bottom of the tank is huge. I have struggled to provide enough light on the substrate and at the same time control algae. CUrrently I am using a low-medium light strategy which seems to be successful with a lot of plants and algae is under reasonable control. Careful plant placement seems like could be key here. Lights are currently at around 70% so I do have room for increasing once I get CO2 and fertilisation properly sorted.
Substrate nutrients - I started off using API root tabs, which seemed to work OK but were very expensive to maintain on this size of tank. Then moved onto dried homemade clay balls rolled with dry fert salts. The clay particles have proved problematic as once disturbed into the water column they are so tiny they are hard for my filters to filter them out. I am still suffering from some water cloudiness from residual clay. I have now moved onto "injecting" aquatic pond compost under plants where I see necessary using an adapted 10ml syringe. This technique has worked well but the effects on plant growth are yet to be fully assessed as this is fairly new. Its certainly not a problem to water clarity of any is disturbed from the substrate. I have high hopes for this method of providing a decent amount of slow release nutrients in the substrate.
Ultimate goals - There is no specific aim of this tank in terms of aquascaping. It was always quite a loose idea of what I have trying to achieve. In my mind it is still 50% a "fish" tank and 50% a "planted" tank. I am balancing the needs of both. It does mean I add a lot of nutrients in terms of fish food and water column fertilisation has to be adapted accordingly. I have some hardscape, so it will not officially be a dutch aquascape. However, I feel that description is the nearest to my goal.
Being a bit of a shrimp nut I would love to have a load of dwarf shrimp in the tank but with the acara (who is staying) that is impossible. I am pleased to have recently discovered that he will tolerate large amano shrimp !
I think currently its mainly a question of discovering which plant species are really going to work well in the tank and then just letting them grow in.
Heres a couple more slightly closer pics.
Almost exactly 1 year ago I decided to try and turn this plastic planted tank into a properly planted fish tank. I had been having some success with planted small low tech shrimp tanks and felt I had the skills to convert this main family display tank to a properly planted tank as well.
So over the last year this tank has evolved considerably, as I learned more and more about fertilisers (which are expensive for this size of tank unless you use dry salts), lighting etc, etc. (After a year I still feel mostly like a beginner).The game-changer was a couple of months ago when I started CO2 injection and suddenly My success rate jumped massively. I still have the challenges of an inert substrate but the CO2 helped enormously.
Here's the tank as of right now
So I'll try and list some stuff .........
Tank - 150 x 60 x 60cm
Filters - 3 x Eheim 2217 canisters. All filled with Eheim coarse foam pads.
Substrate - a mixture of coarse sand and fine gravel. All inert, from around 1-3 mm grain size.
Water - RO remineralised with Salty Shrimp Bee Minerals GH+, to zero dKH, 5 dGH. 50% water change weekly.
Water column ferts - These are from a brand called Solufeed, which is becoming popular in the niche market of planted aquaria in the UK. THese are not aquatic-oriented but are very popular in the hydroponic growing sector here. Brainier folks than me on UKAPS have worked out the best products and right doses. I don't have a set of scales and am inherently a bit lazy about these things so I converted the recommended weights of ferts for my size tank into level teaspoons of dry salts. The tank is big enough so that I can simply dose dry salts daily (I do dissolve them in a jug first).
Macros - Solufeed 2:1:4 High K (https://www.solufeedshop.com/214-high-k-1-kg-18-p.asp) - 1/4 tsp daily, plus K2SO4 - 1/8 tsp daily.
Micros - Solufeed Sodium-free TEC (https://www.solufeedshop.com/tec-sodium-free-54-p.asp) - 1/16 tsp daily.
Substrate ferts - spot-injected boluses of aquatic compost where required.
Lighting - 2 x 120cm Hygger LED units. Currently around 20-30 PAR on the substrate using the Photone app on my iphone. Rising up to 80-90 PAR near the surface.
CO2 - FIre extinguisher system. Cheap regulator, solenoid/timer. Homemade horizontal Yugang reactor plumbed into a variable bypass loop in the outlet of one of the canister filters. Use of Hanna CO2 test confirms around 30 ppm CO2 throughout key lighting period. Tank is aerated overnight.
Temp - heaterstat 25 C
Livestock .......
- 6" Blue Acara
- 5" golden gourami
- SAE
- 10 x congo tetras
- 4 x scissortail rasboras
- approx 16 x harlequin rasboras
- 10 x whitefin bentosi tetras
- 4 x Cory sterbai
- 1 x Stiphodon ornatus (who I have owned for over a decade despite my abuse. I am convinced this fish is immortal)
- 6 x Otocinclus
- 3 x amano shrimp
- 3 x ember tetras
- 5 x cherry barbs
- plus one or two other small oddballs I have probably forgotten
Plants - I have been through quite a few and have kept those which have worked well. Most species are now a lot more successful with the added CO2.
Currently .......
Alternanthera reineckii rosaefolia (I am struggling a lot with this. Its growing but all leaves becoming algae covered after a couple of weeks)
Bacopa amplexicaulis Aquafleur (seems to need lower light so is tucked away at each end of the tank)
Cryptocoryne balansae (new)
Cryptocoryne Wendtii Red (new)
Eriocaulon sp vietnam (new)
Hygrophila corymbosa (new)
Hygrophila polysperma Rosanervig (new)
Limnophila heterophylla (continues to grow around 12" a week, to be phased out)
Limnophila rugosa (new)
Ludwigia palustris “super red”
Pogostemon helferi (this was an in vitro plant but has grown superbly for me so far. I have even had to remove a load)
Pogostemon samsonii (new)
Rotala bossii
Rotala colorata (thrives in this tank)
Rotala rotundifolia red (thrives but not enough light for good colouration)
Staurogene repens
Challenges with the tank have been mainly trying to deal with lighting the 24" depth and also substrate fertilisation.
Lighting - I have two cheap long Hygger luminaires across the top of the tank, so I have good coverage across the tank but the difference in PAR from top to bottom of the tank is huge. I have struggled to provide enough light on the substrate and at the same time control algae. CUrrently I am using a low-medium light strategy which seems to be successful with a lot of plants and algae is under reasonable control. Careful plant placement seems like could be key here. Lights are currently at around 70% so I do have room for increasing once I get CO2 and fertilisation properly sorted.
Substrate nutrients - I started off using API root tabs, which seemed to work OK but were very expensive to maintain on this size of tank. Then moved onto dried homemade clay balls rolled with dry fert salts. The clay particles have proved problematic as once disturbed into the water column they are so tiny they are hard for my filters to filter them out. I am still suffering from some water cloudiness from residual clay. I have now moved onto "injecting" aquatic pond compost under plants where I see necessary using an adapted 10ml syringe. This technique has worked well but the effects on plant growth are yet to be fully assessed as this is fairly new. Its certainly not a problem to water clarity of any is disturbed from the substrate. I have high hopes for this method of providing a decent amount of slow release nutrients in the substrate.
Ultimate goals - There is no specific aim of this tank in terms of aquascaping. It was always quite a loose idea of what I have trying to achieve. In my mind it is still 50% a "fish" tank and 50% a "planted" tank. I am balancing the needs of both. It does mean I add a lot of nutrients in terms of fish food and water column fertilisation has to be adapted accordingly. I have some hardscape, so it will not officially be a dutch aquascape. However, I feel that description is the nearest to my goal.
Being a bit of a shrimp nut I would love to have a load of dwarf shrimp in the tank but with the acara (who is staying) that is impossible. I am pleased to have recently discovered that he will tolerate large amano shrimp !
I think currently its mainly a question of discovering which plant species are really going to work well in the tank and then just letting them grow in.
Heres a couple more slightly closer pics.
1 Replies
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455 views
Hi All,
This is something I've been wanting to do for years, and I think I finally found a sensor that will work. I've always had trouble reading the API tests, and I've always been miffed that the reefers get the cool digital test readers - and wanted to take a crack at building one that could potentially read any freshwater test given a blank/known concentration as a calibration.
A sensor came out from ams (AS7343) in 2022 that unfortunately has been made EOL, but has a replacement (TCS34488M) with a similar package that might work for future versions.
I recently got my hands on a qwic version of the AS7343 sensor from sparkfun, and figured its time to put together something.
Goals:
I figure I'll need 2 light sources (warm white, and IR for reading the phosphate test), but can use the same sensor array across most tests. I can use a small-form ESP32 as the MCU to give it USB-C power, wifi/bt connectivity if needed, and keep it small. Small/cheap ~1.3" OLED screen for displaying results/selecting tests.
Enclosure will be 3d printed.
First pass at a sketch - I might drop the screen if I can give the device a web interface though, which will make the device even smaller/cheaper, reduces the need for physical buttons on the unit, and a 2nd pcb entirely. Also not sure if it will need a cover for the top of the vial, or how much ambient light will affect the reads. TBD. Will order some XIAO ESP32S3 to play with and see how far I can take it.
I'll log progress here, and am very open to suggestions and ideas. If successful, I'll release the files so it can be easily replicated.
This is something I've been wanting to do for years, and I think I finally found a sensor that will work. I've always had trouble reading the API tests, and I've always been miffed that the reefers get the cool digital test readers - and wanted to take a crack at building one that could potentially read any freshwater test given a blank/known concentration as a calibration.
A sensor came out from ams (AS7343) in 2022 that unfortunately has been made EOL, but has a replacement (TCS34488M) with a similar package that might work for future versions.
I recently got my hands on a qwic version of the AS7343 sensor from sparkfun, and figured its time to put together something.
Goals:
- As cheap as possible
- Universal as possible
- Fit API glass/plastic vials (not sure yet if the plastic vials will read ok)
- Start with Nitrate/Phosphate and see if I can add more there
I figure I'll need 2 light sources (warm white, and IR for reading the phosphate test), but can use the same sensor array across most tests. I can use a small-form ESP32 as the MCU to give it USB-C power, wifi/bt connectivity if needed, and keep it small. Small/cheap ~1.3" OLED screen for displaying results/selecting tests.
Enclosure will be 3d printed.
First pass at a sketch - I might drop the screen if I can give the device a web interface though, which will make the device even smaller/cheaper, reduces the need for physical buttons on the unit, and a 2nd pcb entirely. Also not sure if it will need a cover for the top of the vial, or how much ambient light will affect the reads. TBD. Will order some XIAO ESP32S3 to play with and see how far I can take it.
I'll log progress here, and am very open to suggestions and ideas. If successful, I'll release the files so it can be easily replicated.
12 Replies
·
209 views
Staff member
I Donated 2026
Founding Member
Hi,
As you may have noticed, we have not opened the June contest. This is because I've been traveling since the end of May and only now have returned home.
We are 3/4 of the way through June so it may be better to wait and skip this month. Apologies for this.
All the best,
Art
As you may have noticed, we have not opened the June contest. This is because I've been traveling since the end of May and only now have returned home.
We are 3/4 of the way through June so it may be better to wait and skip this month. Apologies for this.
All the best,
Art
0 Replies
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5 views
I Donated 2026
Expert in Residence
MOTM Winner
I have good nutrient, CO2 and light levels, why do my plants still grow poorly
Many hobbyists spend time perfecting tank parameters, nutrient, light and CO2 levels, thinking that this automatically translates into optimal plant growth. While these factors are important, there are many other factors that affect plant growth.
For example above we have two groups of Lysimachia parvifolia growing side by side. Both groups have access to the same parameters, CO2, light, nutrients, substrate. However, the group on the right is growing poorly with darker, melting leaves and the group on the left is growing super vibrant red, with hardly a blemish.
This is not due to some arcane reason such as water flow hitting one group but not the other. The reason here is much simpler - the group on the right has been trimmed back repeatedly and allowed to grow in the same spot for a few months, while the group on the left was uprooted in the last month, divided and replanted. Overcrowding, both above and below the substrate, resulted in poorer quality new leaves being produced for the group of the right. This poor growth happened despite great growth parameters, a ton of CO2 and nutrients in the water column etc.
Different plants have different tolerances for overcrowding and aging. Some plant species regenerate well from repeated trimming cycles, others need replanting more frequently. Having great growth conditions delay deterioration of old growth, but most plants grow more optimally with regular replanting to clear congested rootzones and old growth.
Trimming and replanting cycles
The exact number of trimming cycles each species can regenerate from, and the time it takes for old growth and root zone congestion to take effect is different for each aquarium environment. Generally, if aquarium conditions are more spacious, and there is more substrate depth and stable growth conditions, plants can grow in one spot longer. Stressful growth conditions, poor nutrient/CO2 levels and even poor microbial balance accelerate deterioration of old growth.Interestingly, on the opposite end, overcrowding and root zone congestion also happens more quickly in fast growth aquariums. Hobbyists that throw a ton of nutrients and CO2 at their plants run headfirst into the brick wall that is overcrowding. This can be countered somewhat by using a portion of slower growing plants in an aquarium. The slower growing plants can be worked less often, while the fast growers are on a more regular replanting cycle.
Many aquascapers avoid stem plants because they require much more frequent replanting to grow well. Species such as Anubias, Bucephalandra and Cryptocoryne species on the other hand, have extremely long replanting cycles, and can grow for years without needing to be uprooted.
In this stem plant heavy aquascape that is around 7 months old, every single plant cluster has been replanted at least once. A sample of the replanting cycle for each species:
- Rotala blood red SG - every 4 months
- Rotala macrandra mini type 4 - every month
- Lysimachia parvifolia - every 2-3 months
- Xyris difformis - every 5-6 months
- Elatine triandra - every month
- Rotala florida - every 3-4 months
- Staurogyne purple - every 5 months
Uprooting, cleaning, replanting:
To refresh stem plant bushes, we will replant the fresh tops of the plants, while discarding the older bottom portions.
The first step is to uproot the entire stem plant bush. To control the mess when pulling up the soil, we recommend using a water siphon to vacuum the area when pulling up plants. The siphon should be held very close to the point where the plant is being pulled up to catch the soil debris.
We will try to remove as much of the old root system as possible and also remove any organic debris that has accumulated in the area. While organic debris contributes small amounts of nutrients through decomposition, a build-up of organic debris will interfere with root formation for more delicate plants and will also trigger algae. To stir up the organic debris, we use a turkey baster to spray jets of water onto the substrate while vacuuming with a siphon. The aquasoil should look clean before we start replanting.
The next step is to sort the uprooted stems and select only the healthiest heads for replanting. (A) is a middle portion and already has several branches. It is a poor choice as it will give rise to very uneven growth. (B) is a weak cutting- observe how thin the stem is, and the lack of colour. If replanted, it has a lower chance of success. (C) is ideal. A thick, singular healthy top with healthy new leaves.
Enriching the substrate with new aquasoil
When plants are uprooted, we can take the chance to enrich the substrate. There are two main ways to replenish depleted aqua soils. The first is to use nitrogen-rich root tabs. The second is to add fresh ammonia-rich aquasoil periodically. A good rate is adding 1% of new ammonia-rich aquasoil per month. For example, if you have 30kg of aquasoil in an aquarium, adding around 300 grams per month will work well. You can add new aquasoil during plant replanting cycles. Simply remove a portion of old aquasoil with a water siphon or spoon, then add and mix in the new aquasoil. This method may be cheaper than using root tabs in the long run
Replanting entire planted aquariums regularly is not feasible for most aquarists. So having an aquascape consisting solely of fast growing stem plants can be a nightmare when overcrowding and age sets in. Aquarists should plant a mix of slower growing species and species that do not need frequent trimming/replanting. Then the fast growing bunches can be replanted on a rotation basis - only one species is replanted during each weekly water change for example.Replanting work requires skill and dexterity. It is often difficult for beginners to manage, until some experience is gained. It becomes much easier with practice and time.
In this aquarium, Rotala florida, Xyris difformis, Syngonanthus species are all plants that can grow for months without replanting.
With consistent maintenance, aqua soils do not need to be replaced. The aqua soil in this aquarium is 1.5 years old APT Feast. Regular enrichment and clearing of detritus allows the substrate to perform like new. By renewing plant growth continually through replanting, and enrichment, planted aquariums also become more algae resistant.
This article is a slightly condensed version as I know folks don't like to be redirected, the full article can be found here:
Good parameters, Good CO2, Good light, Poor plant growth?
8 Replies
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152 views
Resource EU sources of micronutrients
Lesser Snipe submitted a new resource:
EU sources of micronutrients - Overview and compositional comparison of EU sources for micronutrient powders.
Read more about this resource...
EU sources of micronutrients - Overview and compositional comparison of EU sources for micronutrient powders.
Read more about this resource...
0 Replies
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11 views
Supporting
I Donated 2026
Rockstar
3 Replies
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25 views
Supporting
I Donated 2026
Rockstar
29 Replies
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394 views
As the title suggests, I would appreciate recommendations from you experts for a good all-in-one fertilizer. My plan is to dose daily using a dosing pump (with additions after water changes.)
Preferences:
Can buy in larger quantities, 500 or more.
Can be purchased somewhere local or with free shipping
Reasonable price is always appreciated.
Links are appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Preferences:
Can buy in larger quantities, 500 or more.
Can be purchased somewhere local or with free shipping
Reasonable price is always appreciated.
Links are appreciated. Thanks in advance.
24 Replies
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1102 views
Staff member
I Donated 2026
Founding Member
Well, as this thread exists in a few places, I figured why not have it here also. Perhaps we can take up the baton and keep it active and bring some value to hobbyists.
For those of you that don't know, I got into thinking much more about my micros when I read this thread on another forum. It was started by our very own @GreggZ. It was spurred into existence because of our own @Burr740 and his work with micro fertilizers. Some really good discussion followed and a lot was learned.
I don't want to steal Gregg's thunder with this so I hope he posts his current thoughts on the subject and we can all take it from there.
All the best,
Art
For those of you that don't know, I got into thinking much more about my micros when I read this thread on another forum. It was started by our very own @GreggZ. It was spurred into existence because of our own @Burr740 and his work with micro fertilizers. Some really good discussion followed and a lot was learned.
I don't want to steal Gregg's thunder with this so I hope he posts his current thoughts on the subject and we can all take it from there.
All the best,
Art
82 Replies
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13226 views
Hey folks, this marks the first time I've had more than one journal at a time, but I'm beginning work on a new 120x60 low-iron, rimless aquascape. I've been inspired by Hendy8888 and @Naturescapes_Rocco to try to make a really high quality stand. I have tried making a stand before, but it was a 2x4 stand with reclaimed wood facing, and it ended up looking pretty amateur. I'm trying to go high-end on this one in part because I want to be able to build cabinets for various projects around the house, and my wife will be less upset if I botch a fish tank stand than if I botch a new kitchen build.
I love seeing these stand builds, but they've always seemed somewhat under-documented to me. So this is starting from the very beginning - the design.
Under the influence of Rocco I did some 3d modeling for the tank. The pictures are a front view, one without the top sheet one, and one without the doors on. I used Shapr3d, which is free for one project. Let me know what you think of the design, and if there is anything I could work on!
I love seeing these stand builds, but they've always seemed somewhat under-documented to me. So this is starting from the very beginning - the design.
Under the influence of Rocco I did some 3d modeling for the tank. The pictures are a front view, one without the top sheet one, and one without the doors on. I used Shapr3d, which is free for one project. Let me know what you think of the design, and if there is anything I could work on!
86 Replies
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6619 views
I Donated 2026
Expert in Residence
MOTM Winner
Era of AI slop is truly upon us. Firstly, no one holds the Oxyguard analyzer's probe as it takes 15-20mins to get a reading.
Size of the box is wrong and no shadows below the box, caps missing and a strap that goes nowhere. Aquarium looks fake as well. Real pic below for comparison.
7 Replies
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174 views