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What did you do to your tank(s) today?

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This is an awesome design. Is that 3/4" pipe? Or, if you have a link to the exact union coupling you used, let me know! I can't find my old ones.
Ha! The idea came from you. I originally wanted to switch from the 45° fittings that come with the ARC reactor to 90° and it was you that said the flat side of a standard 3/4 union could fit in the non-standard union ring of the ARC. Of course, it's costly to buy 3/4 unions only to waste 2 thirds of it but oh well, we like to spend money here, right? So yes, the pipe and all other fittings are 3/4. The only drawback is that if you want to reconfigure the ARC another way later on, you have to cut off the fittings to get the rings back. That's why you might also notice in the photo, I still have the 90° elbows I previously made, just in case. I bought a second reactor for the next 120cm tank so had 2 sets of rings. Also, silicone 16/22 tubing does fit snugly over the 3/4 barbs. One other thing; the 3/4 union flat side did have a slight edge around the center so rather than take chances it might not seal well on the ARC stock gasket, I sanded it down perfectly flat and smooth.
 
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Love the mounting brackets! 😯 What are those, do you have a link?
The reactor is the Aqua Rocks Colorado acrylic reactor which is designed with that mount. It's a permanent part of the reactor itself. I just added the bypass.
 
I just sold some plants to a guy (big bunch of blyxa i wrecken it ended up being about a $1 a plant lol, rotala, star grass, pearl weed, ludwigia super red, swords, val and a few other bits and pieces. ) I tried and mostly succeeded at keeping him away from the plants that need co2/higher light.

This guy is planting out a custom built tank 16 ft long, 6 ft tall, and around 5 ft deep. About a 3,400 gallon tank. He had a custom light built which cost him around $8K, 16 ft long, 3 ft wide which he says has the power of a chihiros rgb light.

Never mind the other dimensions, I think a 6ft tall tank would be a little challenging!
 
Progress on aquarium stand for new 90P. Many thanks to TRyan and Rocco for their trailblazing and shared input. Couldn’t have done it without them. Sanding and painting to go now.
 

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Well, I was sliding my Week Aqua P120 back into place on my Dutch tank when I heard a cracking sound. It wasn’t the tank, thank goodness! The light bracket broke/came apart on one end and the light about fell in the water. I don’t even know where those tiny screws went. I had a new hanging light stand already waiting, I just didn’t want to deal with it until next month. Anyway, I spent the afternoon putting it together, and then found that the light wouldn’t fit between the 2 end pieces. I had to take off the ends of the light to get it to fit. It isn’t that noticeable, but have I done something dangerous? Will it shorten the life of the light?
 
Well, I was sliding my Week Aqua P120 back into place on my Dutch tank when I heard a cracking sound. It wasn’t the tank, thank goodness! The light bracket broke/came apart on one end and the light about fell in the water. I don’t even know where those tiny screws went. I had a new hanging light stand already waiting, I just didn’t want to deal with it until next month. Anyway, I spent the afternoon putting it together, and then found that the light wouldn’t fit between the 2 end pieces. I had to take off the ends of the light to get it to fit. It isn’t that noticeable, but have I done something dangerous? Will it shorten the life of the light?
What kind of bracket are you using that the light wouldn't fit. Can you share a pic?
 
Ah, so this is your DIY stand? The ends being off is'nt a big issue. It's mainly just an aesthetics thing and helps keep a little dust out. Do you have any space at all now between the light ends and bracket arms. I don't have a P series, just M and L series and the end caps are flat. It looks like that end cap is much thicker. If I had one or exact dimensions, I could model and print a thin flat cap to take its place if you have the room.
 
Ah, so this is your DIY stand? The ends being off is'nt a big issue. It's mainly just an aesthetics thing and helps keep a little dust out. Do you have any space at all now between the light ends and bracket arms. I don't have a P series, just M and L series and the end caps are flat. It looks like that end cap is much thicker. If I had one or exact dimensions, I could model and print a thin flat cap to take its place if you have the room.
It’s a smaller version of the same kit I used on the 140g, plus the sturdier corner brackets that I used there. That’s what I thought about the end pieces, so thanks for confirming! There is only about 1/16 inch on each side, so it would probably be difficult to make something to fit, and the left side had the cord going through that piece too. I just slid that piece down the cord and out of site, but a new cap would have to snap around the cord somehow. It seems more trouble than it’s worth, but thanks so much for the offer!
 
It’s a smaller version of the same kit I used on the 140g, plus the sturdier corner brackets that I used there. That’s what I thought about the end pieces, so thanks for confirming! There is only about 1/16 inch on each side, so it would probably be difficult to make something to fit, and the left side had the cord going through that piece too. I just slid that piece down the cord and out of site, but a new cap would have to snap around the cord somehow. It seems more trouble than it’s worth, but thanks so much for the offer!
You could perhaps add some 1/2 or 3/4 spacers where the bars mount to your stand but then the top corners wouldn't mate as cleanly.
 
You could perhaps add some 1/2 or 3/4 spacers where the bars mount to your stand but then the top corners wouldn't mate as cleanly.
Yes, I think I’ll leave it as is. The top corners are already stretched to their limit if I want the top bar to rest on the side bars without putting all of the weight of the light just on the corner brackets. Thanks for your help though!
 

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