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I have always liked Rotala florida as plant due to its strongly colored leaves, but realized that I haven't actually aquascaped much with it - meaning to integrate it as part of a layout and not just growing a bunch of it in farm/collector style tank. Using plants in a layout in tighter bunches, and in competition with surrounding plants/hardscape is much harder than growing it farm style in a single patch - it also means be able to shape/trim the bushes to match the overall curves of the layout.

Back in 2016 or so when I first received Rotala florida samples from north america, I could only grow it in sparser bunches. It looked nice in macro photographs but I could not envision using it an bush that would show off well as part of a layout unless I can grow it much denser. In the recent years, there were two main discoveries that I found in my experimentation, the first is that it grows better in moderate GH (5 dGH+) compared to super soft water (say <3dGH), and that it grew better in certain soil mixes (I experimented with different garden soil mixes when engineering the composition of APT Feast). Eventually I integrated some of the soil data into APT Feast's composition, and paired with the higher power lights readily available today, I find that I could finally grow the plant the way I envisioned as part of overall layout. I could prune it dense, as the base stems were healthy enough to sprout dense side shoots after trimming - and the secondary/tertiary shoot tips were as fully colored and sized similar to a primary shoot tip that hasn't been subjected to topping yet.

As a midground stem, it works very well due to its slower growth rate vs other colored stem plants.

Against the deep purple of Rotala florida, I found that Golden white clouds worked quite well. So now they are the main inhabitants of the tank.

Tank this week (25/6/2025)



Tank started out like this:

A week or 2 after initial planting (5/5/2025). I reused old aquasoil from the previous scape, so I planted all plants up front rather than waiting more time for the tank to stabilize, with the idea that I could out-grow any algae issues. Initially wanted to add H. Chai but it really didn't fit the overall color scheme, and the bushes by the side were too invasive to be compatible with having a chai patch I think.

Since it was going to contain Rotala florida, I thought I might as well throw in other high demand troublesome species such as the Red Eriocaulon quinguangulare, blood vomit. I settled on Rotala tulunadensis for the background as I wanted something dense and shapeable.

Tank specs:
60x36x36cm
Filter: Oase biomaster 250, all sponge media
CO2 injected through inline atomizer
Substrate: APT Feast
Water column: APT Sky to raise GH to 5dGH, 2ml of APTe per day.


Light distance. Interestingly, not crazy high PAR - just around 200-250 umols PAR at the substrate level.



Trimming and shaping: Most bushes were shaped by cutting individual outlier shoots one by one. Only Rotala blood red and the Rotala tulunadensis was straight trimmed across the entire top once.


This is how the Rotala tulunadensis looked like after a straight trim on 29/5/2025. About 3 weeks from when the top picture at top of this page was taken. It took the plant a whole week + to show new shoots. It seems straight trimming slows down the plant quite a bit, but allows for a very dense & neat canopy afterwards.



There are some interesting plants stuffed here and there. Some Eriocaulon caulescens? bolivia? that local hobbyists passed on to me. Carved out a patch for Syngonanthus vichada - slow grower, but the couple of babies that came have doubled in size so I think they should be alright. I think I will move them to a larger tank with more space.









Only discovered the color combination with the Golden white clouds when the tank matured, but its one of my favourite fish-plant combinations now. I think that while some of the species are a bit picky about growth conditions, one thing I really like about this tank is that most things have moderate/slow growth rates, which makes maintenance with regards to removing excess growth less tedious.
Elatine triandra is used as a low growing green filler plant - it does this role well. As it does not root very deeply, I can easily cut and pull off excess growth easily. Its the fasting growing plant in the layout that requires frequent removal of excess growth.

Some more close-ups.








I'm trying to replicate concepts of this layout (slowing growing bushes) into my 4ft tank.

So how much flow do you guys recommend? I know this question can have varied responses. Internet searches seem to say around 6 times turnover rate. However other discussions talk about how important flow is for spreading nutrients, detritus removal, etc. 6x just seems awfully low.

Would 10x be too hard on plants? Or nano fish?

Hello all, my name is Mike and I just found this site by accident. I think @gjcarew told me @GreggZ had moved here but some how I failed to remember; so I'm glad I found this site today. I am a fan, as you can tell, of GreggZ. He taught me just about everything I know (through his journal on that other site) and I was also banned over a 0dKH discussion . So you know, I kind of feel close to the guy. Joking aside, I was able to go from this.
To this within a short period of time just by reading his journal.
And as time passed I was able to get this nice scape that made my wife happy.


Then I had the pleasure to meet @gjcarew over on a different site and I reached out to him with questions and such; through those conversations he motivated me to make an attempt at the 2022 AGA Dutch competition. Unfortunately, I messed the tank up right when I was about to take my photos and I couldn't recover the tank in time. Here's that tank. Obviously, there are tons of problems with it, but I was proud of it regardless. I believe it had a shot at a top 10. Not really.
I messed up the Myrio and started to get algae because I wasn't front loading properly and I didn't realize it. I believe I went too lean and thought the Landen would cover the difference.

I won't lie, I felt completely defeated and I kind of slowed down on all my tanks and didn't put my full attention into them anymore. Also, my wife and I were getting a bit burned out with so many tanks to maintain. This is where my journal begins.

I wanted a solution to reduce our work load, and I definitely wanted a bigger tank to house my livestock from the other tanks. I was also sick of lugging canister filters around the house then plugging them to realize I forgot to connect a tube. Fountains of water on our walls wasn't working out so well! I also wanted absolutely no water outside of the tank. By chance, I found the Innovative Marine SR Pro2 120 and bought it.

Now here's the cool thing that happened. I was using a 20 inch RO housing for my reactor, but the tank is only 16 inches high. Four inches of Cerge's reactor was incredibly ugly. And again, by chance, I found the solution. Enter the Yugang Horizontal reactor. I affectionally call it by his forum name because I couldn't be happier with how amazing this thing is. It's so simple, yet so brilliant. I reached out to Yugang and asked if he got the reactor to work. He replied with "my CO2 spray bar works so well I never tried it". I then asked if anyone else got it to work and he said no one has tried it. So I told him I would and apparently, I really am the first person to run this thing through some trials. I think that's pretty cool honestly! Yugang made some calculations for me and on the second build, we nailed it. I get a 1.5pH drop and the design makes it so no additianal CO2 can be added. It's seemingly impossible to gas my fish as the reactor has safety built into the design length. Amazing! I'm so glad there are so many people smarter than I am. It makes my problems so much easier to manage .

The reactor is nothing more than cheap PVC with a gentle stream of tank water flowing under a pocket of CO2. Add a cheap bypass and a method of injection and you now have a Yugang reactor. This success has energized me enough to have another go at the AGA. I bought new lights (Weak Aqua P600's), jammed as many plants I could into the tank and I'm starting my plant selection now. I have a long ways to go but I'm hoping to achieve my goal. The tank is nothing to look at right now; getting plants here in Albuquerque is quite the challenge so I'm mostly waiting on submerge growth and to get them propagated. I also have way too many species but the selection process has begun. I just need to see which ones will grow in Ace Hardware pool filter sand. So far, all seem like they are coming along fine in the sand.

Oh, here's the reactor.

And here's the really ugly tank in it's current condition.


I promise, it will look much better soon. It's been a scramble to pull everything together so quickly.

I hope some of you follow along; I know I will have tons of questions soon enough for all of you!

I’m excited to see how this grows and changes. It’s my first scape and setup that’s high tech. I’m hoping to get rid of the ugly filter intake and outage but haven’t found good info on what lily pipes to get and tubing and how to install them on my fluval 107 canister filter so that is next on my list. Stocking right now is 12 green neon tetras, 10 emerald dwarf rasboras and 6 amano shrimp. I’m currently not fertilizing because I’m struggling with high nitrates.

There are several threads discussing the new Aquael Hypermax 4500BT. I'm sure many would like some reports on it's performance over time. We have a thread discussing nano canister filters. We're all waiting for one of @Naturescapes_Rocco in depth write-ups discussing his filtration set-up. @Pepere and @*Ci* have unique set-ups as well, @Kwyet has used a matten filter, and we have several other members running sumps. That doesn't even include all those running sponge and HOB filters.

The idea is that we can consolidate a lot of filter information in one place making it easier to find rather than searching through so many threads. Maybe this won't work but I thought it was worth giving it a try. Perhaps it may be better listed as an article at some point.

I'm going to get things started by discussing factors I feel are most important to me when choosing a filter.

1) Filtration Performance: This goes without saying. The filter’s primary job is to keep our water clean and free of anything that harms the inhabitants. Of course, there are multiple factors that play into this. Some say flow is most critical, while others claim media volume is most important. Are there other factors? I still have limited experience, but my view, having done considerable reading, is that flow tends to be a bit overblown. You’ll see recommendations of anywhere from 4 to 10 times turnover rate with most leaning toward the higher end of that. I don’t think turnover rate is really the detail to be concerned about, at least with heavily planted tanks like are the norm here. I think the focus should be simply on ensuring flow achieves the goal of effectively moving water through the system to remove toxins/waste, delivering nutrients, and aiding gas (oxygen/CO2) transfer. If a turnover rate of 3 or 4 does that without dead spots in the tank, you should be good. After all, most of us here are plant focused and therefore, the fish we generally have are smaller community species that typically don’t care for high flow (there are, of course, exceptions).

I think there’s a simpler answer regarding media volume; more is better. Obviously, there must be a balance between internal volume and overall size of the filter. Real estate in and around our aquarium stands is precious. Filters like the Fluval FX6 and the newest Aquael Hypermax are huge. If you’re going for one of those, you’re likely putting it on a large tank with plenty of space underneath but again, it’s a matter of finding the right balance that provides the performance you need in a manageable size.

2) Reliability/Durability: This is where solid reviews come in handy and why getting feedback from users here is invaluable. Filtration performance becomes moot if the filter isn’t running, or worse yet, just flooded your house. Being able to easily source spare parts is also valuable, which is why sticking to the top well-known brands is often a safe route. It’s also why many aquarists place canister filters in protective containers, something else to consider when taking into account, size of filter. (this is something I should really do as I’ve had to clean up a few significant spills after filter maintenance and not getting the top secured in place properly )

3) Tie – Maintenance/Noise Level: These two factors are equally important to me. If the filter is a pain to maintain, I’m going to put it off, and that’s bad. It affects the performance. But equally important to me is how noisy it is. I tend to be sensitive to annoying little sounds regardless of where I am; at home, in the car, at work, you name it. If the aquarium is in a part of the house I spend a lot of time in, well then, it’s even more important.
I don’t know if Oase was first to do it, but the idea of the prefilter was, I think, a game changer for many. I imagine it was derived from people installing foam filters on the intake pipes. Having an easily removable section with foam filters that catch a lot of large particles before entering the primary filter chamber is a great idea, resulting in expanded intervals between main filter head removals for cleaning.
Another aspect of maintenance is ease of priming. This could also be an aspect of performance but I don’t think it is quite as important. I’m not sure there is a canister filter that is truly or consistently easy to prime. Some may start out that way, but over time, become less and less so. This is an area I’d really like to see product designers put more serious thought. My experience so far is with Oase and the Fluval 07 series. Hated the Fuval priming and I’m just so-so with the Oase. Let me know your experience with priming other brands.

As for noise, I don’t mind the slight hum of an impeller as long as it’s steady and consistent, much the same way some people, including myself when I was younger, like the smooth steady sound of a fan at night to help them sleep. It’s when the sound becomes inconsistent, I’m bothered. I also don’t care for the sound of splashing/trickling water while I’m focused on other things. Only when I’m camping near the banks of a creek or other body of water is this OK . This is one of the main reasons I’m not a fan of HOB filters. I’m also tweaking my CO2 reactor designs to minimize the bubble sounds of CO2 entering the reactor.

4) Cost: Let’s be clear, the cost doesn’t stop when you pay the retail price for the filter. There’s the cost of media and spare parts plus the cost of electricity. What’s the rated wattage of the filter. I see the Aquael filters claim to consume lower power and are therefore cheaper to run. What about special filter cartridges or foam. Is it easy to cut foam filters from inexpensive bulk material? How often are gasket replacements necessary, or are there common issues with parts failing over time. Of two Fluval 07 filters I’ve used, both needed replacement impeller shafts. Oase Biomaster filters seem to have an issue with the input/output head often needing replaced.
I admit cost isn’t a critical factor for me, but I know it is for many others, so this is another instance where finding the right balance is key, in this case, the balance between price and performance.

Share your thoughts. Do these factors seem to align with yours or do you think I’m way off base. Tell us what types and brands of filters you prefer and why.

​

Hi guys. I wanted people’s thoughts and experiences with Aquael’s Hypermax 4500 or any of their other large canisters. Currently I have a custom 100 gallon heavy stocked planted aquarium running on a sump that I need to downsize. I’ll be getting a 90 gallon and was thinking about getting the Aquael Hypermax 4500 for it. Thanks for the help.

Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @CodyG!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?

Hi to all, here is the journal of my single tank that I set up 2 years ago or so. Last February I changed the substrate but I neglected the tank for a month. Fortunately the new substrate and medium-low light prevented the disaster, but I got a lot of BBA on slow growers like Eriocaulon, Anubias and Cryptocoryne.
This is a second hand tank, it was cheap and had a stand included, but it is what it is.

Why "Eternal Newbie"? Because I have been in the hobby for ten years, but I have never reached what I wanted the most: a steadily healthy planted tank with a nice scape. At the beginning my failures were due to bad suggestions, but then because of me: mainly due to my impatience for results and always looking for perfection. Basically, I had short spells of healthy growth interrupted by long periods of chaos in the tank. Because I changed too many things too fast, I never had the chance to understand what was actually effective.

17th April


Tank size: 120x40x52h cm, 47x15,7x20,5h inches

26th April


Citizens:
22x Black neons (Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi)
7x Otocinclus (I'd like to bring them to 12-15)
1x female Pearl Gourami (Trichoporus leeri)
2x Amano shrimps
I feed the black neons and the pearl gourami well, small doses 2-3 times a day.

5th May

Plants:

• Heteranthera zosterifolia
• Lysimachia parvifolia
• Ludwigia palustris 'Green' (added two weeks ago, arrived in bad conditions)
• Staurogyne repens (added two weeks ago, emersed form adapting)
• Ludwigia sp. "Mini Super Red"
• Eriocaulon sp. "Vietnam" (BBA on old leaves, bad conditions)
• Pogostemon deccanensis (it has never grown well but I don't surrender)
• Lysimachia nummularia
• Lysimachia nummularia "Aurea"
• Hygrophila polysperma "Rosanervig"
• Bacopa salzmannii "Purple" (added two weeks ago, emersed form)
• Bacopa monnieri "Compact"
• Bacopa monnieri "Compact White (added two week ago, in vitro, getting GDA or diatoms)
• Cryptocoryne wendtii "Flamingo" (never grown well, last chance.)
• Nymphoides sp. "Taiwan" (added two weeks ago, in vitro)
• Anubias barteri var. nana "Pinto"
• A big Anubias congensis (probably wrong name by the producer), it was given to me for free but I don't think I have the space for it.
• Floaters: Limnobium laevigatum, Spirodela polyrhiza, Hydrocotyle leucocephala
• Hanging pots (still working on them): Gymnocoronis spilanthoides, an unknown plant I took from a lake round here

7th May


Substrate: Tropica Aquarium soil, 3 months old. I added a lot of MasterLine root caps under it to boost it. Then three weeks ago I tried to add them again, but it's a PITA, so I think I will use only liquid fertilizers.
Light
Week Aqua P1200 Pro V3, 11" above water surface
47% R/ 50% G/ 47% B/ 15% UV
8h + 0,5 h ramp up and 0,5 h ramp down
Filter: Tetra ex 1500 plus
CO2: solenoid valve with timer. The filter uses hoses with strange ID/OD, 22/27 mm or so. I am simply injecting CO2 in the filter because I couldn't find a solution for these hoses... Now I have found a CO2 reactor and a hose that hopefully fit both without restricting the flow too much. Let's see in a couple of weeks.
Mantainance: weekly 75% WC. tap water only until two weeks ago (KH lowered to roughly 2 with a solution of HCl+H2SO4), then 5/8 Tap (with KH still lowered to 2) + 3/8 RO.
My tap water contains (ppm): Ca 50, Mg 18, HCO3- 200, Cl- <2, SO4(2-) 24, K<0,5, Na 1, NO3- 4.
By mixing 5/8 tap with 3/8 RO I should get roughly 32 ppm Ca, 11 pm Mg, KH 1.
I am trying to clean the substrate at every water change, since the black neons poop a lots.

Fertilization with KNO3, K2SO4 (dry dosed), KH2PO4 (dry dosed), MasterLine I, Iron gluconate (dry dosed), MasterLine Carbo

NO3-: 24 ppm (I used to dose 15 ppm until 3 weeks ago); 18 ppm after WC then 6 ppm.
K: 28 ppm, a bit more considering what I say about P.
PO4(3-): I have bought a JBL test and I tested them last week: when I dose 4 ppm I get less than 1 ppm after 48h. The soil is still absorbing a lot of PO4(3-), so I am goin to dose 4 ppm after WC, then 2 ppm everyday.
Fe/Micro: 7,5 ml of MasterLine 1 daily (0,07 ppm Fe) + 0,03 ppm iron gluconate daily (dry dosed)
MasterLine Carbo 7,5 ml daily and after WC. I think to stop it once I run out of it, but it will take me 4-5 months.

11th May (today)

Algae:

• GSA on glass and old leaves of Lysimachia parvifolia
• diatoms (I think) on floaters' roots and Bacopa monnieri 'White'
• BBA on old leaves of slow growers and recently on glass

Objectives/To do list:

• be patient
• be positive and do not focus only on what is not doing well
• clean the rear and side glass
• install the CO2 reactor (need to wait)
• install the Oase skimmer and tidy up the hanging pots and floating plants
• keep the journal updated!

Just spent a little while browsing through this thread list. Was hoping to figure out a solution for fertilizing all of my tanks without spending so much money. I currently have 8 tanks at varying levels of complexity and am also brainstorming a bowl and at least 4 other tanks. So- lots of fertilizer. But man!! I feel like apt3 will not last me long. Especially if I’m front dosing (I think that’s what Rocco called it) like was recommended in my journal post.
After reading through some of these posts I wonder if I have the comprehension skills to be able to do some of these things I see resources for! I’m so glad to have found this site. Def wish the app worked for me though.

If you've been in the aquarium hobby for a while, I'm sure you've created or picked up so valuable hacks that fall into the tips, tricks and time-savers categories. So, in an effort to compile and share them, let's post them here.

This site is about sharing knowledge and experiences so don't be shy, no hack is too small or silly.

Please post yours.